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                                                5th April 2008, 07:57 PM
                                        
                                
                                
                                        
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			300 Tdi timing belt wear
		
		
				
					
					
				
				
		
			
				
					Hi All,
Stripped down the front of a mates 300 Tdi today because of injector pump shaft leak (see my other thread) and found a large amount of fine belt material throughout the timing belt area. The material is like a fine cotton fibre mixed with oil/fuel and accumulated in bunches between the pulleys
After removing the belt, it seems that the wear is on the engine side, but I can't see where the cause of it might be.
The belt was replaced about 40K ago and it looks like the people who did that upgraded to the new kit. (tensioner pulley has a raised front edge)
Because of the fuel leak, the belt has to be replaced in any event, but before I do that, does anyone have any ideas on the cause etc.
Regards
M.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
				
			
			
			
		 
	 
	
	
 
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                                                5th April 2008, 08:10 PM
                                        
                                
                                
                                        
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					There were 2 modified timing belt kits. One kit has a new timing case  along with the pullies & injector pump bracket whereas the other kit is a lot smaller.
 
If the belt is still wearing, I would suggest that maybe the wrong kit was fitted - it depends on the VIN of the car.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				Scott
			
			
		 
	 
	
	
 
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                                                5th April 2008, 08:33 PM
                                        
                                
                                
                                        
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					Thanks Scott,
I have the RAVE CD which details the VIN numbers, but I don't know how to identify the kit currently installed, other than the tensioner having a raised front edge.
I have read previously that the later kits had this raised front edge to stop the belt tracking too far forward into the timing belt cover.
Thanks for your post.  Hopefully will get more responses to shed some more light.
Regards
M.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
			
		 
	 
	
	
 
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                                                6th April 2008, 07:31 AM
                                        
                                
                                
                                        
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					AFAIK, the latest change to the timing belt drive, replaces the tensioner and the sprocket on the crankshaft has flanges on both sides.
The sprocket on the tensioner does not have flanges (this was the older system). You said it had a flange on the front. It appears to be the old sprocket and the rear flange has been worn away by the belt.
The new tensioner (without flanges on the sprocket) is better at holding the pulley in line than the old style.
The other change that Land Rover made was to issue instructions to reduce the tension in the timing belt. From memory, the new value to use for new timing belts, when adjusting the tensioner is 11 Nm (the workshop manual says 14 Nm).
It is important to use the reduced tension. Those cheap and nasty pressed pulleys that Land Rover use, distort and cause the belt to track off. The 200Tdi has better pulleys and does not have the same problems.
Edit; the instruction, with the reduced tensioner setting can be found on the rave cd.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
			
		 
	 
	
	
 
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                                                6th April 2008, 07:53 AM
                                        
                                
                                
                                        
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					further to what John said, the Bearmach belt kit, as opposed to the OE one, has a better crank pulley. the OE one with the spot welded flanges has a tendency to lose the flanges and destroy the belt, the Bearmach kit uses a one piece pulley. Bearmach kits are supplied through a Karcraft distributor.
The key to it all though is the lower belt tension than is called out in the paper manual. As John said, there is a TSB in the RAVE disc detailing the new specs. 
Also, Difflock.com has a tutorial on changing the belt that is easier to follow than the manual.
there are a bunch of links here in common threads, including the Difflock link http://www.aulro.com/afvb/common-thr...ming-belt.html
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
			
		 
	 
	
	
 
		
		
		
	
 
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
		
		
		
		
			
				
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