Thread: LT230 Intermediate shaft seal

Have you read this thread ?

Transfer Case Oil Leak

Originally Posted by isuzu110

Have you read this thread ?

Transfer Case Oil Leak

Yes but it doesn't really address the TC problem I have more to do with the main seal and fitment of the V8 R380 gearbox.

Thanks

For the intermediate shaft seal, the short answer is no - it has to slide forward to fit the o-ring, and when connected to the gearbox, part of the gb lies in the path of the shaft.

In taking the TC off, I found that when I did it the 2nd time around, leaving the crossmember alone, and just taking the handbrake drum, handbrake assembly and driver side transmission mount bolts out was the simpler version. It's still better if you have a mate to help remove it from the gearbox, as it's right on the limit of a one person lift.

Whilst it's out, and given your assessment of your spanner skills, stick with what you know - do the 2 output and 1 input seal and that's it.

With the intermediate shaft, just watch it as you undo it. You only need to tap it a little to reveal one o-ring, and the other o-ring needs a scribe or similar to dig it out of the casing at the rear. Don't overtighten the shaft nut when putting it back - I'll presume you have a copy of RAVE for the right torque.

When you put the TC back, do it without the input shaft gear and coverplate.It makes it just a little easier.

Warning: Make sure the short bolts go into the right holes - otherwise the TC locks up and grinds the bolts.

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the tips. I was hoping you might have something to say. Your a good source of technical knowledge.

I will only look at doing the seals. I had a quick flick of the overhaul manual and it did seem like you needed quite a few tools and skills to be able to do anything like bearings etc.

Can you clarify "part of the gb lies in the path of the shaft"

Do you mean it's easier to handle and locate the TC if you don't put the input shaft gear and coverplate on?

Hope to talk again soon.

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

... I will only look at doing the seals. I had a quick flick of the overhaul manual and it did seem like you needed quite a few tools and skills to be able to do anything like bearings etc....

The seals are relatively easy to change.

You should make sure you have the cross drilled input gear. And check the splines on the gearbox main shaft and inside the t/case input gear for wear.

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

... Can you clarify "part of the gb lies in the path of the shaft"...

If you try to remover the t/case intermediate shaft in situ, the gearbox will interfere with the intermediate shaft. Therefore it is necessary to remove the LT230 from the gearbox.

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

... Do you mean it's easier to handle and locate the TC if you don't put the input shaft gear and coverplate on? ...

It is much easier because you don't have the problem of aligning the splines in the input gear with the splines on the gearbox mainshaft, at the same time you are man handling the weight of the t/case.

Also it is easier if you get some long bolts, cut the heads off (or use threaded rod) and screw these to the gearbox so they can be used to guide the t/case into place. The bolts or studs need to be long enough so you can remove them after the t/case is in place.

Early LT230 have roller bearings on the intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft is held in place by a keeper plate and screw.

Later LT230 have taper roller bearings that must have the correct bearing pre-load. There is a crush sleeve between the opposing bearings, and the tightening torque applied to the nut that retains the intermediate shaft, crushes the sleeve to obtain the required bearing pre-load.

It is better to renew the crush sleeve and tighten the nut to the recommended torque.

If you re-use the pre-crushed, crush sleeve, you probably won't get the proper bearing pre-load, if you tighten the nut to the specified torque. Langy seems to be saying this is ok. I haven't done this so am more cautious.

The correct bearing preload is very important with taper roller bearings in gearboxes. It is calculated to give the correct clearance in the bearings when the t/case is at operating temps (steel and aluminium have different rates of thermal expansion) and under load.

If the preload is too high, the bearings won't have enough clearance and can fail from overheating.

If the preload is too low, the shaft will not keep the gear teeth aligned properly - the load may have to be carried by one side of the gear instead of shared across the full width, causing that side of the teeth to break. Or the tooth action will change because of the excessive backlash, leading to noise, wear and possibly break the tips of the teeth.

Thanks John (Bush65) for this extra information. I have a 1999 110 so expect it will be a late model TC.

If it is better to use a new crush sleeve what should I expect to pay?

I have some leave coming up in May so will set to pull it out then.

BTW, it is also a good idea, whilst your TC is dismantled, to sleeve the intermediate shaft where it fits through the TC case housing - where the o-ring seals. It's a poor design as loading on the shaft wears the TC housing out-of-round thereby preventing the o-ring sealing properly (even a new one). It is worth the modification if you plan to keep the vehicle.

Originally Posted by jmkoffice

BTW, it is also a good idea, whilst your TC is dismantled, to sleeve the intermediate shaft where it fits through the TC case housing - where the o-ring seals. It's a poor design as loading on the shaft wears the TC housing out-of-round thereby preventing the o-ring sealing properly (even a new one). It is worth the modification if you plan to keep the vehicle.

Is it hard to sleeve the intermediate shaft hole?

I have read that MR Automotive do it but I am in Melbourne.

Thanks