Id open up with the flapper unit not reading correctly or being stuck.
Hi all,
I am hoping someone with knowledge of EFI can offer me some advice please. I have a 1987 3.5 EFI Rangie - I think that means the flapper type system - which has been intermittenly running rich for over a year. Acting on helpful advice from this forum a year ago I cleaned the connectors to the thermotime switch, the engine temp etc and it seemed better for a while.
Recently it started running REALLY rich, even black smoke out the back, but cleared up to just drivable once warm.
Now it won't start at all, and there is a strong smell of petrol, mostly from the exhaust.
I have disconnected the cold start injector, but no help. I have checked all the connectors visually, and confirmed that the spark looks okay.
Does anyone have any suggestions please?
Cheers,
Paul
Id open up with the flapper unit not reading correctly or being stuck.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks Dave for the quick reply.
I have just pulled off the flapper valve, and it's movement seems silky smooth. Are there any other checks I should do while it is off?
Any other suggestions please?
Thanks,
Paul
yes while its off you want to hook up a very sensitive multimeter to it and watch the resistance scale this will highlight if its having hassles or not esp if the numbers jump around erattically.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I have measured the voltage from pin 7 to pin 9, and it varies smoothly from 3.7 volts to 1.6 volts as I move the flap, as per manual.
The manual says there should be 1.55 volts from pin 6 to pin 9, and 4.3 volts from pin 8 to pin 9. These voltages are transposed on mine, but I think it is probably a typo in the manual as the voltages co-relate so closely.
By the way, what is the little motor under the bonnet that starts whirring away when I move the flap from rest?
Cheers,
Paul
Hopefully it's not under the bonnet. The fuel pump is activated by the air flow meter opening ie when the engine starts. This follows the 1.5 secs or whatever when the ignition is turned on.By the way, what is the little motor under the bonnet that starts whirring away when I move the flap from rest?
Re the richness. I would look at the temperature sensor.
There are only a few things in injection that cause the injection to run rich.
1 The temp sensor giving high resistance. This could be a dirty contact
2 Limp home when there is no signal from the air flow meter, but this is not black smoke rich.
3 high fuel pressure from a failed fuel pressure sensor.
4 The cold start injector leaking
5 an injector seized open. This happens mainly on LPG cars.
Other failures like the ECU would tend to drop one bank or similar.
Regards Philip A
Hi Philip,
Thanks for the reply. Hmmmm - I am certain that whirring noise was under the bonnet, or in the cabin, definitely not the fuel pump! At first I thought it was the heater fan or air-con fan. Very peculair indeed.
Also, I have an immobiliser that works only on the fuel pump. It was in the OFF position.....
I doubt if the fans are controlled by the ECU or I would suspect that it was getting confused in its instructions. I wonder if there could possibly be a short circuit somewhere, all very strange. I will identify that noise and go on from there.
I am not certain that the richness and the current refusal to start are the same cause, but it does seem likely.
I'm a bit stumped on this. Carbies, points and compression are so easy - one can always get the buggers to go.
Cheers,
Paul
Thnking on, maybe the immobilser only works on the 1.5 second starter-induced signal and what I hear IS the pump. Could have sworn is sounded under the bonnet!
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