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I installed Drivesafe's headlight wiring upgrade kit on the weekend.
Lights are certainly brighter, and no more headlight switch burning!
Master
Lots has been written previously on the topic but I thought I'd pass on my experience from last week whilst driving to Fraser Island.
Lights went off on a pitch black night somewhere south of Gympie. Rolled into town behind a semi trailer with only my side lights on. Dipped beam had vanished, together with dash board lights. After remembering all the words on the forum it was pretty obvious that it was the Master Light Switch.
My thanks must go to the lads in the garage behind Hungry Jacks in Gympie who were closing up for the night but instead of kicking me out and laughing, rang around to see if they could source a new unit. Sadly they couldn't find one but one of the lads had a mate who told him how to do a temporary repair.
Cut the three wires off the old unit and bind them together gives you all the lights you could ever need. The added benefit was that the lights were brighter than they have ever been.
Next morning managed to find a new unit in Hervey Bay and installed it whilst waiting for the barge over to the island.
That's what I love about these cars - can be repaired in a car park with a pair of sissors. So next time your lighting switch burns out try the three wires twisted together solution.
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Master
I installed Drivesafe's headlight wiring upgrade kit on the weekend.
Lights are certainly brighter, and no more headlight switch burning!
Master
SupporterAfter my first switch died.
I unplugged it, cut the switch off the plug and soldered all 3 wires together.
Then just plugged the joined wires back in for lights, unplugged when not needed.
- As turning the key off it turns off main lights anyhow, it just leaves the parkers on. (no big drama for short stops at night).
This soldered plug is permanently in my console if ever needed in a hurry.
1999 110 Defender 'Extreme' TD5
ForumSage
I tried to repair mine and it broke. Solution was 2 switches on the dash. 1 does the parkers, dash and rear lights. The second does the main beams.
ChatterBox
SupporterMy local auto electrician put a relay into my circuit after I'd burnt out the second headlight switch and realised I'd been towing my camper trailer both times. He said rovers are bad for it because they send all the power for the headlights directly through the switch.This also means the power drawn by the lights on whatever you're towing also goes through the switch causing it to heat up and melt.
Master
Driving along with the wires hanging down I did happen to notice that the wires got quite warm after a couple of hours driving. Thinking about the wiring upgrade kit to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Ben, how long did it take you to install the kit? Any problems?
Master
The kit itself only took an hour or so, but I had the Landy apart for 2 days to strip out a lot of "previous owner" dodgy wiring for driving and fog lights, plus a fair bit of WTF wiring from the battery box.Originally Posted by White 110
I couldn't plug in the supplied headlight connectors due to my County's metal backed headlight holders, so I deviated from the instructions a little and worked with the existing bullet connectors.
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