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Thread: Pegging A diff

  1. #1
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    Pegging A diff

    Hi Guys;

    Has anyone seen or heard of this Mod on a Rover Diff ,

    Ashcroft Transmissions


    I was impressed by this claim;

    This mod is extremely effective, never seen one fail.

  2. #2
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    someone on Outerlimits did a couple, can't remember who now

    Do a search over there, it was discussed a while back. The Poms have been doing it for years, people out here just fixed the problem by using a stronger centre or complete axle assembly.

  3. #3
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    yeah ive seen that.

    Its been in truck diffs for years.

    Not as hard to fit as they make out about the hardest part is making the plate and getting it to stay on the bolts.

    If your driving your rover hard enough to do the kind of damage that they are suggesting then youd want to be driving a comp truck. As they alluded to its something you want to maybe consider AFTER youve upgraded the center.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    Hi Rick;

    I read "Once the Diff centre has been changed for a stronger one be it either Detroit locker, ARB or other types ( in my case MaxiD Rover Centre with maxi Axles ) "diff centre has been up-rated" ,I may still experience a failure of the crown wheel and pinion gears.

    Now the reason I asked this Question was that I'm going up to 35" tyres (305/75R/16) with 4.11 diffs , will this MOD further increase chances of shock-loading on the the diff ,If so will this MOD be worth doin

  5. #5
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    yep..Diff centre & axles uprated, I tent to drive as BigJon said once here "as slow as neccessary off-road" definitely not riding the loud pedal.

  6. #6
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    What this does is to force the mesh of the CW&P to stay in the correct position no matter how hard the pinion tries to force the teeth of the crown wheel away from mesh.

    IF you do it and you dont need it you havent lost anything. (other than the cost of the mod) it causes no change in the handling characteristics of anything save for 2 14mmish bolt heads sticking out the side of the diff to catch mud on.

    If you dont do it and you need to you'll work that out by the failure analsys of the diff, Since the diff has to be pulled to do the mod you're only out the cost of a diff set and if you do a full rebuild when you do the mod+repairs you get the warm fuzzy feeling of having a toughened in perfect condition diff between the wheels.



    IMHO if you travel inside mobile phone range or in convoy and you're running a stock donk and trans but with slightly larger rubber and a tougher center you dont need this mod unless your actually out to try and find the weak points in your rig by abusing it.

    IF your after the ultimate in dependability just incase you do need to abuse it away from civilisation then its a maybe.

    If you've tweaked the nipples off of everything but havent yet converted or dont want to convert the diff to something with a meatier crown wheel then this mod is the go.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    305/75-16's are a 33" tyre. 315/75-16 are the 35's.

    Your truck is relatively light though and with lockers will probably be ok, but some of the big tyres generate a lot of grip and will break things. If it were me... I would be thinking that with lockers and up to 35's and driving with half a brain then not to sweat to much. If you want to run loaded and play hard or play hard with bog tyres or drive care free then I'd be looking at different diff centres to the normal rover design.

    It's always nicer to drive home though.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #8
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    Hi,

    you don't really need to bother doing this on a trail rig, as mentioned above just drive steadier,

    we really just do this for the competition off roaders in the UK and Europe that want to run 35" to 37" tyres and still hammer them.

    It's quite effective, we do about 5 a week,

    Dave

  9. #9
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    Dave(Ashtrans),
    Do you sell the parts to do the pegging yourself?
    Cheers Eric.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    305/75-16's are a 33" tyre. 315/75-16 are the 35's.
    thanks for correction simon , i thought i had my tyre size wrong , the rear diff has the maxi drive centre so it has been uprated, truck isn't a competition vehicle ( yet ).I was merely considering this MOD.

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