Thread: Transfer Case Oil additives - Yes or No?

Dexron III type oil is what your after for it

theres a few things that can cause the problems...

it might just be a harmonic of a propshaft thats just a mickey out of balance.

if you drain and flush the oil in the tcase examination of the stuff that comes out will reveal if anything is going awry in the case itself...

If your getting ally shavings then the chain is slapping the case from wear and the only real cure is a rebuild. other metals will be from the gears bearings or shafts.

Hi Dave,
Yes, I was reading some info that had been posted before on the workings of the B/W Transfer case and the problems associated with the chain and gears when the vehicle has done a lot of Kms, as mine has done... (350K)
It was suggested that this situation should be adressed before it breaks by replacing the chain and gears or risk getting stuck without drive at all.
It all makes a lot of sense but I bet it's an expensive job to replace these bit and pieces.
I used to do a lot of work on the Rangies when I was a lot younger but age has caught up making it really hard to do the heavy work under the truck so I can see the specialists getting a good chunk of our savings on this one.....
Regards,
Shirley...

To answer the question, I use Castrol synthetic ATF in mine plus a Nulon engine treatment.
Teflon may not be good for motors but like Mos2 it is a good scuff and surface lubricant, and its just a chain. I couldn't find any Molyslip anywhere as it seems to have gone the way of the Dodo.The viscous coupling is a self contained unit.
Great so far at 146K, even when a workshop "forgot" to refill the transfer after doing a rear main seal.
Claimed they did not tip it after taking it out. I found about 100CC in it after doing about 1000Km,and the filler cap dirty and untouched. Thank God for the oil pump.
I will be interested to see what my splines are like when I finally do pull it apart.
By the way , a thought on your Transfer vibes. Have you checked whether your viscous coupling has seized? This is usually the first thing to fail and could cause a vibration due to slightly different tyre diameters "winding up."
You check by jacking up one front wheel then putting a screwdriver in the front UJ and turning. It should turn sloooowly with great effort.
Regards Philip A

whats your location. theres some people on the forum who will do some work for beers + parts (as in you provide all your own parts and their grog of choice) or know people who do good work at fair prices and might be able to get you out of the poo.

If we know where you are we can point you in the right direction. (this would be the update your profile to include your home town hint)

Originally Posted by PhilipA

<snip>

I couldn't find any Molyslip anywhere as it seems to have gone the way of the Dodo.<snip>

Regards Philip A

pretty sure Molybond are still in business out Smithfield way. They can supply pure MoS2 in a mineral carrier oil. You used to be able to buy it in 50 or 100ml tubes.

Soluble Moly is a better EP additive, (Texaco/Caltex use it in Delo engine oil) but platelet moly is still excellent stuff as an EP additive, although I wouldn't dare use it in an Auto transmission.

Something I have not tested Phillip.
Definitely the next thing to look at in the morning, thanks heaps.
I had totally forgotten about that little monster.
Best wishes,
Shirley.....

Hi Dave,
I am on the Central Coast NSW in a town called Wyee, not all that commonly known but in the old days before the freeway, everyone went through it going North from Sydney or South from Newcastle or the New England....
Cheers,
Shirley..

Hi Rick,
I am pretty sure you are right with the old Molybond or just adding the Molybdinum Powder to some oil and squirting it in.
I am glad you guys are thinking, I think my brain died last Thursday.....
Ta muchly,
Shirley......