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Thread: Welding axles to drive flanges

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Welding axles to drive flanges

    I have a bit of wear on my rear axle / drive flange splines. Rather than spend money on new flanges or Maxi Drive axles etc I'm thinking of welding the flanges to the axles. Is there anything wrong with doing that? Anyone done it?

  2. #2
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    giday mate

    have a read of this post TD5 defender drive flanges

  3. #3
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    I recently posted the same issue. I welded a bit of 20mm plate on the end of a section of 2" pipe then faced the end in the lathe and machined a recess to accept the spigot on the flange(a tight fit). At the other end I made up a sleeve that held the axle (diff end) central in the pipe. The pipe was just long enough for the short axle to protrude from. I cleaned the flange & axle pressed the flange into the end plate, centralised the axle and turned it so that the thrust would be taken by the splines as well as the weld. I then mig welded it on the outside of the flange, leaving the rubber cover groove intact. I used a 3 ph mig with a bit of grunt. When cooled I placed the axle in the lathe and machined the inner face of the drive flange so it would be true. Has been done now for a week and I have not have had any problems and is a vast difference with no drive backlash. If you want further info contact me as I have (at this stage) no further use for the jig.

  4. #4
    jddisco200tdi Guest
    A friend of mine did it on a 130 as a temporary fix until he could afford to get maxi axles/flanges. It did the job.
    Make sure you use the right rods as I think they are dissimilar metals.

  5. #5
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    It will work (as others have said), but is likely to leave the axles a bit weaker, and possibly more prone to failure.

    I have snapped a 24-spline salisbury rear axle on 32's.

    If you do it, it would probably be best to let them cool down as slowly as possible (don't quench after welding).

    Keith/Rovertracks in the US can sell you stronger axles that are 1 piece with the drive flange for a good price (cheaper than MD etc.).

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies. I didn't know about Rovertracks. I've bought Maxidrive axles/flanges before and I just can't bring myself to spend that kind of money again, however at $400 the Rovertracks ones look like bloody good value. I've just sent him an email. How many others here are using them and how good are they?

  7. #7
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by wally View Post
    Thanks for the replies. I didn't know about Rovertracks. I've bought Maxidrive axles/flanges before and I just can't bring myself to spend that kind of money again, however at $400 the Rovertracks ones look like bloody good value. I've just sent him an email. How many others here are using them and how good are they?
    Hi-Tough Flanges around $130. Axles around $260.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Hi-Tough Flanges around $130. Axles around $260.
    Each side or for the pair?

  9. #9
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    Each

  10. #10
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    I'm not sure what you drive, but I've heard of someone extending the life of Series 3 rear axles by putting a washer between the circlip and drive member, which exposes a little unused spline to use.
    If you're in a Defender, I'm wrecking a 95 110 with (I think) MaxiDrive drive members on all four wheels. They're the ones with the big covered nut over the circlip, yeah? Unfortunately, I'm not yet able to post photos.
    Hope this is of some help...

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