Anti-Stall and Traction Control Defender

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Originally Posted by CapeLandy

After this last 4 days in the mountains I came to the conclusion that the anti-stall system would be much better turned off.
On the steep uphill it works fine keeping a constant rev of 1000r/min above the normal 800r/min idle.
However the down hills and walking over large rocks is frustrating as the engine is always hunting the 1000 r/min and causes the vehicle to lurch all the time and I can hear already the "klunking" in the drive train as she speeds and slows the engine trying to keep the revs constant.

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Hi James,

The anti-stall in mine keeps about idling rpms, not much above. Never 1000 rpm. I have a lot of fun using it in real conditions.

I'd say something wrong in your case. Try to disconnect the clutch switch and compare the ride. Possibly your clutch master cylinder or the switch on the way out. I've replaced mine before it died and found it only after pulling the plug off (Nanocom is another way to check it). No more jerking.

In theory anti-stall is proactive, and starts doing the job only under load, when gravity or resistance of the terrain come on against and engine wants to stall. So why it should keep revs at 1000, if idling is ~740 according to book?

TC :)
At the beggining I was thinking to disconnect it. Now I know it nearly good as lockers if you know how to use it. In some cases TC even better, because less chance to damage some parts of transmission and dig a big holes.

TC works independently on front and rear axels. May be not correct terminology, what I want to say is to get more from TC don't use central difflock in some situations. And use throttle, TC likes wheel spin.

Other trick is to use torque instead of power on wheels. Driving on sand is a good example, where constant terrain resistance exists. Jump on higher gear, sit around 1500-2000 rpm and "shake" your car. This is the way how I engage TC to work.

Cheers,
Ruslan

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Originally Posted by CapeLandy

Tried slowing her down below 1000 r/min on a steep down-hill and the engine just pulls harder and no matter how hard you press the breaks she dosn't slow below that fixed speed.

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OK... There is a reason for that and it's not anti-stall.

When you're in 1st Lo, the ECU raises the idle speed. This is because the gearing in 1st Lo is soooo low that without raising the idle speed, you run the risk of having the car sliding as it's going too slow.

M

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Originally Posted by Ruslan

I'd say something wrong in your case. Try to disconnect the clutch switch and compare the ride. Possibly your clutch master cylinder or the switch on the way out.

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Ruslan - IIRC, you've got TD5 where as James has TDCi. They work differently... (See previous post).

M

disconnect the low range sensor or better yet the 1st gear sensor. even better put a manual switch on it with a warning buzzer/light that will go off when you have it in the disabled position.

if it doesnt know its in first gear...........

I am a big fan of TC and ABS. They are a truck saver when something unexpected happens.

I can't see why they are more of a cheat than lockers, and anyway they are kinder on the tracks.

That sensor idea sounds good.
I must have a look underneth tonight and see if I find it. The computer will never know it is unplugged as I am sure it would be a normally open switch.
Otherwise I can just say a bush must have pulled off the sensor by accident.;)
James

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

disconnect the low range sensor or better yet the 1st gear sensor. even better put a manual switch on it with a warning buzzer/light that will go off when you have it in the disabled position.

if it doesnt know its in first gear...........

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good theory but I think you will find there isn't a sensor,

Dave

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

OK... There is a reason for that and it's not anti-stall.

When you're in 1st Lo, the ECU raises the idle speed. This is because the gearing in 1st Lo is soooo low that without raising the idle speed, you run the risk of having the car sliding as it's going too slow.

M

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Can't follow this. Sliding is a matter of grip as much as it is speed.

Low/low is OK, but there are plenty of times when an ever lower crawl speed is desirable. Ever noticed someone abusing a clutch in lo/lo? Between 60:1 & 80:1 is usually the aim for more serious crawling. There's a big market for lower range gearing.

I hadn't noticed the idle goes up in lo/lo. If it does I can only guess that gives the engine a few seconds to recover if its loaded up. If is loaded at say 750 rpm, increasing fuel may not be enough, it might need a bit of flywheel help.

Regards
Max P

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Originally Posted by Diego Luego

I am a big fan of TC and ABS. They are a truck saver when something unexpected happens.

I can't see why they are more of a cheat than lockers, and anyway they are kinder on the tracks.

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Damage to tracks is a function of pressure applied by the right foot. Lockers can walk over territory with remarkable ease, and little throttle is needed. TC always needs wheelspin to work.

In otherwise identical vehicles, in the same conditions, lockers are kinder to the environment in my opinion.

A locked vehicle can go further, and do damage getting out, but that's another argument.

Regards
Max P

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Ruslan - IIRC, you've got TD5 where as James has TDCi. They work differently... (See previous post).

M

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Hi Camel Landy,

Have read it twice and can't see anything about TDCi in the tread :eek:

Don't think LR deleveloped something totaly new in 2007 model re ETC/ABS, still same sensors etc., so there is a faulty component somewhere for sure. I just wanted to share that I've fixed mine and have no complains how TC/Anti-Stall works :angel:

Cheers,
Ruslan