Thread: URGENT: 300Tdi Broken Drive Belt!

Originally Posted by codboy

Treads ,just did my idler bearing replacement make sure you have your sense of humor when you attempt circlip removal can be tricky to get out .
When you do get it increase the angle of the bevel to make it easier next time.
On the parts cost side of things just got my belt for $44 along with service pack filters etc and then had them posted to me postage $6 saved 50 to 60 bucks just by ringing around! If ya have time that is!

Codboy,

Are you willing to share as to where you managed to get the deal?

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

Remember to get 6203 bearings that are double lipped seals. Provides better dust and water protection. Dearer than $6 though.

Yeah I rang Repco and they quoted me $6ea for 6203 bearings. Maybe there's different types?

Originally Posted by Treads

Yeah I rang Repco and they quoted me $6ea for 6203 bearings. Maybe there's different types?

NTK 6203 LLH C3 or 6203 RS2 C3 from memory.

Treads

driving a 1 km down the road may no have done any damage however bear in mind that the Serpentine Belt drives your water pump which pushes water thru your cooling systems , assuming coolant levels were normal and there is plenty of coolant inside the engine , it needs to circulate thru your radiator to keep things nice and cool, without that serpentine belt the water pump won't operate.

Slug_burner , had them sent from British off road landsbrough qld , if in bris vegas also try MR Automotive at redcliffe same prices same excellent service !

Totally agree!!! Happened to me, but I ignored shaft movement in PAS pump. Bad move, next time the belt went (2,000ks or so) it wrapped itself so tightly around the water pump shaft it stuffed the inner seal on the unit!

Of course, I didn't find out the water pump was stuffed until I put it all back together and ran it.

This little mistake cost me an extra belt and a water pump, not to mention a weekend.

Also, was advised by a LR mechanic that the main belt could take out the A/C belt when it goes and that, in turn, can slice the control wiring on A/C compressor, which is unserviceable (i.e. new A/C comp.).

So, check the PAS pump shaft for movement!

Originally Posted by V8Hybrid

Treads
I would check you power steering pump and make sure the pulley/shaft is in its spot. Belt failures (on good belts) are usually caused by the PAS shaft coming forward causing misalignment due to the bearing failing or shaft breaking.....just supplied 2 pumps today due to this fault.

Just take belt off ( already done for you) and move the pulley in and out, if it moves in and out you need a new pump.

Julien

Mine did the same with a seized idler bearing when the wife drove to Sydney. She told me after I flew down that it was making a funny noise Sometime the day before.
Check all the pulley bearings and replace if required as i found that they deteriorate at a similar rate and fail one after the other.

Originally Posted by codboy

Treads ,just did my idler bearing replacement make sure you have your sense of humor when you attempt circlip removal can be tricky to get out .
When you do get it increase the angle of the bevel to make it easier next time.
On the parts cost side of things just got my belt for $44 along with service pack filters etc and then had them posted to me postage $6 saved 50 to 60 bucks just by ringing around! If ya have time that is!

When I did mine I filed a slot to make future changes easier. Its at about the 7 o'clock position



Martyn