Did mine in Orange end of last August after extreme frost, replaced this week before rego check.Quote:
Originally Posted by sushiman
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Did mine in Orange end of last August after extreme frost, replaced this week before rego check.Quote:
Originally Posted by sushiman
Happened to me, leave it in park/gear with the hand brake off. I ended up gently rocking my 110 back and forth in low range till it let go. The front brakes of one of the other guys rangies had frozen solid also, its the only time I've had to do a recovery in a gravel car park!Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverOne
Tim
WEAR THIN SOCKS!!!
Many people make the mistake of taking thick, wooly socks when they go skiing for the first time. Bad move! Thick socks fill up with sweat (or water if your boots are leaky hire ones) and then chill your feet - or in extreme cases, cause frostbite. Thicker socks also restrict circulation and that can also encourage frostbite or at the very least, really, really sore feet. As the socks compress your boots will then get too loose and you will have a crash.
You need long, thin socks (not footy socks). Get proper skiing ones as they are also good for hiking. This will also help you to know if the boots the hire place is giving you are a proper fit. Put them on for five minutes then take them off and take your socks off and look for red patches.
Also, it is worth paying decent money for waterproof gear. Colombia make some of the best, warmest, most weatherproof gear around. If you keep clear of the bright colours then their jacket outer shells are good all year round as raincoats. That way you're not spending mega-bucks on gear you're only going to use for a couple of weeks.
The same goes for gloves. Cold, wet hands make skiing a misery. Especially in July.
Saw this happen in the Remarkables car park in NZ. A Lancer had its rear left wheel locked after sitting in the snow all day. It dragged along but unlocked itself before it left the car park (I was driving behind it).Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverOne
Would be more of a problem in a transmission handbrake situation than in a front drive rear handbrake vehicle.
The drums freezing up isn't that bad because if you can turn it, it'll heat and unstick. Even second in high range can overpower my handbrake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utemad
The real problem is when the cable freezes. It's amazing how many things can have water in them and not worry you until winter-time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Treads
Hi Treads,
You will find a lot of the 4WD tracks closed for the winter.
Mt Stirling and Craigs hut will be out, unless you are keen to ski to them.
The Rd from Falls Creek to the Omeo Hwy is closed in winter, as is the Rd from Dargo to Mt Hotham. The Rd from Bright to Omeo over Mt Hotham is open all year apart from the odd day after a big dump of snow.
Have a look at the Parks Victoria web site
Parks Victoria: Parkweb.vic.gov.au
click on the "before you go" thingy on the front page.
Also the 4WD Victoria web page
FWDV Home Page
and
http://www.fwdvictoria.org.au/upload...0info/sc08.pdf
for a full list of seasonal closers, it's in no useful order and if you don't know the areas it will be hard to work out were it all is.
Depending on your dates maybe we could hook up for a weekend somewhere.
I am an hour from Bright.
Tony
I've been looking around for snow chain info on the net. I'm definitely going to be doing a fair bit of 4wding on this trip.
Firstly wondering whether buying or hiring is the best option?
Secondly, should I be thinking of getting 2 sets for both front and back?
Third, Can you mix and match styles of chains? Was pondering whether to get cross style for the steer wheels and ladder style for the back?
Also, I've seen mention of dropping tyre pressures in the snow, is this still applicable with chains? and if so, what pressures? I have an onboard compressor, so inflating again isn't a problem. I'm running standard Disco alloys with almost new Bridgestone 694LT 245/70 R16's.
Lower tyre pressures give you more flotation in snow (just like sand), but higher air pressures give you more grip on ice.
I bought diamond pattern chains for snow/ice, my experience with ladder chains is a wheel that slips everytime the pressure comes off the main bars. So starting uphill on hardpacked snow/ice gives you a grip/slip/grip/slip/grip/slip result until you're up to speed.
Take the Windex and really clean up the inside of your windows. It's amazing how easily they'll mist up in the cold if they aren't really clean.
When you get stuck, (not if!), a small shovel is the best for snow, since it's so heavy, and fibreglass is best since snow sticks to steel.
Geez . . . now I wish I was going!
What kind of pressures are relevant here? 20Psi?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal