Thread: TD5 Injector Loom cheap fix once and for all

Very good idea, thanks for this.

Baz.

Maybe Admin could move this to Projects & Tutorials?

Originally Posted by mousie

Now to the plug itself. By design, the pins are crimped to the individual wires and they have a hard inner plastic surround of a few mil for insertion at the time of manufacture into and through the black block (BMW need to be smacked for this design here as this was not intended for pressure). .

No point in blaming BMW. They didn't do the engine development - it was all done at Landrover by Les Wilkin's team.

Cheers,

Lionel

Originally Posted by Shaker

Maybe Admin could move this to Projects & Tutorials?

already done
how about
The Good Oil/TD5 Engine
?

How much heat would this plug be exposed to? Just be careful because some resins will melt and deform at 70-80 degrees or so. It might be worth looking for a high temp resin to fill the plug.

Cheers

Originally Posted by mousie

Folks, as promised.

It's been a week with the new secondhand D2 and I could not believe the cost of injector loom replacements and why the need so I pulled mine apart and find out what is actually happening in micro detail and develop a cheap and proper solution given throwing these looms out is not the answer. If you feel better buying the same problem, don't read any further. My original loom will now out last the engine!

First, the injector plugs themselves (No 1 to 5) have a seal. But this is just a standard socket seal and if you view from the rear you will clearly see that oil is allowed to run freely inside and this is normal. Similar metal contacts and spacing ensure this is not the failure. Actually good construction.

Now to the plug itself. By design, the pins are crimped to the individual wires and they have a hard inner plastic surround of a few mil for insertion at the time of manufacture into and through the black block (BMW need to be smacked for this design here as this was not intended for pressure). The rear of each pin sits lower than the block which is the first cause of oil because it allows oil to form on the back seal and in time the engine pressure, heat and hardening of the inner plastic compound allow the oil through the different plastics. Oh and pluging the vacant pin (Pin side No 3) hole is just a myth, sorry guys and not a solution.

Looking into the pin side you will find, as in my experiement that behind the first plastic wall is a cavity of approx 2 x 10 cent pieces by vol. (How do I know this? solution top up and watch the level drop into and behind the locating guide wall) The oil enters this cavity via the defect in pin seals and spreads over time aided by engine pressure, heat and vibration etc. The actual connection material is typical landrover at its best, different metals over an electrical contact is not the best design but with the oil mix, dissimilar metals and loading = all the faults you folk are having.

So what is the solution and is it permanent? Well open up the rear of the main plug (prise off the cover its a snap in design), a clean of course given the above knowledge of and that cavity needs cleaning. Some time and care is required. I see talk of concern of damaging plastics, don't worry they will take the abuse bar thinners and even if so, you would only wish for this to happen in a controlled environement to bond the two plastics. For cleaning, this is where if you leave the vacant pin 3 open you can force the air compressor through it and watch the oil mix pour out the inner wall of the pin side. More cleaning then allow to dry, I can't stress this enough.

The answer is to use any oil/fuel resistant epoxy bond material. The wires need lifting and use sticky tape to temp form a wall to fill to the lip. No need to put the top cover back on and once in the process of material hardening or setting, drop the wires back into the channel so you end up with a proper seal just looking like the epoxy at the back of the MAP sensor. Fill it up, dont be afraid.

But how to test your filler product as there are many. Well you see the lug off to the side that would take a locating bolt. Not used in the TD5, well first fill this cavity as a test and apply the screwdriver test when dry attempt to punch out, it it does then the bonding material is crap.

Iv'e just used my old resin to finalise this problem.

My nex project as stated is to remove and replace a prom from my 2000 TD5 Auto with a Stage 1 map. Cannot believe the 500 price tag. Hopefully a Stage one map file will fall my way and I'll be off as I the tools for prom removal/replacements hi hi! yeah and hint hint or should that be beg, Anyway I digress!

Some pics up close of what I have said, Hope this helps.

Excellent write up and solution to the Loom issue.. Well done..

However... The bit in RED has me a little concerned...

$500.00 is a fair price considering the research and dev time involved in creating these maps for people to enjoy.

Hours upon hours of dyno time, testing, thousands of dollars in test equipment and man hours etc... To make sure they are safe and offer real world gains..

Yes the Eprom is cheap...

But your talking of blatantly STEALING someones Intellectual property.

Landrovers are a closed market - Only specialists tend to focus on our vehicles... People stealing makes others not want to bother developing new products / upgrades / services....

I'd suggest a rethink in your attitude!!!

And for the record, My mapping is encrypted on Hard Chips and on flashables is protected and tagged...

People who steal the mapping are scum

I agree the the resin temp is important and if you don't know and test the product, it will only frag and end up floating around the insides. I found that after the first repair, I then snapped the protective cover back in and pwiped off the excess so in the event of a lack of bonding any good quality resin will remain captive and together. Sorry for not having pics as its only when you realise the other good posts with heaps of pics you wish you had taken more.

As for Landrover, I thought this was a BMW part, anyway I'm into aircraft design so these sort of things are always mandatory checks i.e. disimilar metals, plastics and the list goes on.

Cheers

BTW sorry to offend Tombie and other genuine sellers as I was only asking in a cheeky way and I have the full respect of all companies and people who actually spend a fortune to develop these maps with the hard work beyond the stage 1 generic. Of course, these companies like I, automatically provide their ABN on all receipts to completely validate their intel work.

All members need to be very aware that they can be handing hundreds over to scum unless they get receipted work and ABN or other business licence/s creds to allow the provider to properly stand behind the intellectual property.

I take my hat of to the above comments as I've worked with countless PIC EEPROM configs, Amatel, ACS, ciphers and with even basic public release 'blowfish' (4K ram required) to the latest ACS. But from the above I am now (including all the landrover geeks reading the above post) even more interested on how one can actually achieve this in a plain old 27c eeprom.

BTW, I couldn't find an ABN on the above website or, perhaps I missed this so sorry about that.