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Thread: How to remove old rust stains around new stainless bolts?

  1. #1
    pommie Guest

    How to remove old rust stains around new stainless bolts?

    Folks,

    I have replaced all of the door bolts on my fender with new aftermarket stainless steel ones. The old ones were quite badly corroded.

    There is still quite a lot of rust decolouration around the door bolts positions.

    I would like to ask advice on how to remove these rust stains from around the bolt holes .... what chemicals to use on the paint work ?

    Thanks Pommie

  2. #2
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    wide flat washers might hide it for you

  3. #3
    mike 90 RR Guest
    You could use some ... "CLR" .... Calcium, Lime & rust spot remover // You would have seen it on the TV ads /// used for removing rust spots on bath tubs

    Kerosene would be OK ... Have no idea if it works but shouldn't harm the paint

    Don't use: thinners or Acitone on paint (unless a test area went OK)

    Also use "Fertan" on the rusted areas .. as it is a rust converter // Water based / turns rust back to metal / stops further metal Oxidisation

  4. #4
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    If it has only stained the paint try using a cutting compound (or cut & polish). Available from Supercrap or similar outlets.

    Would have been best to do this before putting the new bolts in. Doing it with them in situ will mean a bit more cleaning up afterwards.


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  5. #5
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    Hi Pommy

    The best thing and easiest thing to use is "fast orange" citrus hand cleaner on a wet rag, It lifts rust stains like you would not believe. All my customers use it on their crappy Toyota Hi-ace vans that rust down from the windscreen wipers.

    Regards Ian

  6. #6
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    ? Were did you get your stainless bolt set from ?.
    '99 Tdi 300 130 Twin Cab
    When I'm here I want to be out there.

  7. #7
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Hi,

    Any of the rust dissolvers (NOT rust 'convertors) that contains phosphoric acid will do it easily. (stains will disappear before your eyes, thick rust takes longer) About $10 - 15 for 500ml.

    Black molasses dissolved in water at 1:10 approx will do the same but takes a little longer. (good for thick rust where time is not a prob.......items in a 44 gallon drum for eg)

    If you know someone who does hydroponic tomatoes, 20l of phosphoric is only about $65 for them to buy. They use it to control ph, and is not dangerous to use like some other acids.

    HTH, DL

  8. #8
    pommie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Sly View Post
    ? Were did you get your stainless bolt set from ?.
    Thank-you to everyone who made suggestions ... most helpful. Will try this at the weekend.

    To answer Sly's question - I bought them in the UK. And my parents imported them into Australia for me, when they cam to visit, so I could avoid UK->Australia shipping costs.

    I have to admit that I don't remember where... however they are like this:

    MUDSTUFF.CO.UK - Stainless Steel Bolt Sets - Products - Have you got MUD? - Land Rover Solutions

    Thanks...

  9. #9
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    Phosphoric acid will do the trick ... but be aware. It will bleach the paint, so needs to be applied very carefully.

    Cheers

  10. #10
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    Any of the rust dissolvers (NOT rust 'convertors) that contains phosphoric acid will do it easily.
    just a point of clarification: most rust converters /dissolvers are essentially "the same thing" and contain phosphoric acid as the active ingredient...the idea being to convert the iron oxide to iron phopsphate, thereby stabilising the surface and preparing it for recoating...

    Using the "Citrus hand cleaner" sounds a neat idea if the rust is a stain on top of the paint and corrosion has not penetrated through to the metal underneath. In this case the citric acid reacts with the iron oxide to form the iron citrate salt which dissolves readily in warm water. Some forms of the "orange" handcleaner also contain a mild abrasive (like "Solvol") so don't rub too hard on the paint...

    Hope this helps !

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