I haven't tried it myself, although an engineer mate reckons it's not too difficult.
Still, nothing's too difficult when you're in a fully equipped workshop.![]()
Hi Folks,
Hoping you can help...
I'm planning on a top end rebuild of my 89RR 3.5EFI auto and would like to change the rings while I'm at it. Only I dont have access to an engine crane or stand, so I was wondering how difficult it is to remove the pistons whilst the block is still in the engine bay, with the heads and sump removed?
Thanks in adv.
I haven't tried it myself, although an engineer mate reckons it's not too difficult.
Still, nothing's too difficult when you're in a fully equipped workshop.![]()
It is possible, would be a slow time consuming process. Alot of auto one/auto pro hire out eng cranes and stands pretty cheap
Hi done it loads of times for the same reason as you , did not have a engine crane. just take of sump and undo the big ends and after you have taken both the heads off just tap out with a bit of wood and a hammer from underneth. Done it to serval V8s and to a couple of diesels
The advantage over taking the engine out is quicker (in my mind as a whole job) and if you don't have an engine stand easy to do as the engine is rock solid in the car
I have also had it that when you put an engine back in it can go in first time but other times can take serval hours to get back in (mounting back up to the bell housing)
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
The hardest part would be dropping the sump with the front end in the way so just jack the body right up first and you should be right.
Ive done tractors like this but never a car and on tractors it is the easiest way and I wouldnt imagine (unless you had to bore of resleave it) you would do it any other way.
On some cars though you need to remover the trans as it stops you from getting the sump off but I dont think this is a problem with the LR V8's from what I can remember.
doable but its a bit of a pita doing the nip/crush and plastigauging.
getting the sump on and off is the other hard part although as previously suggested can be done just by jacking the chassis but I would personally go the remove front axle route.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
Hi Taz
I have an engine stand that you are more than welcome to use for as long as you need it.A so called mate borrowed it for a week 12 months ago.Been meaning to ask for it back,if you want to use it yell out I will get it back.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Yeah, easy as...
The only problem arises if you have a bad lip at the top of the bore - it can catch on the rings. This is unlikely with a Rover V8, they wear pretty well.
If you do have a lip, you can get it removed by a local engine rebuilder if they'll do house calls. Some will.
I suggest that you put short sections of plastic tube over the conrod bolts so that you don't damage the crankshaft - most important on reassembly.
To reassemble the engine, you will need a ring compressor.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
G`day Taz
Yes it can be done and the sump won`t be a concern so long as it`s remembered the strainer/pickup hangs down but it won`t be alot of fun and you will need a helper or you`ll spend alot of time getting up and down . If you do it this way i`d suggest you spend a bit/lot of time beforehand degreasing and cleaning before anything comes apart .
Then the type a tension wrench you have will help or hinder reassembly and you`ll need to ponder how you intend to hone it , etc . I`ve not done it on a rover V8 ( nor would i be keen to ) but have done it on other vehicles .
I don`t know why you want to put rings in it but if it`s because of wear and i was doing it , i would consider my options .
If it has low compression because of wear it will have higher once the rings have bedded in .
If the rings are worn because of wear the bearings will also be , often the rings will show less wear than the bearings .
The old bearings won`t like the new compression .
The bigend bearings can be changed in the process but not the mains and measuring clearance won`t be joyful .
If i was going to spend the time and money on it , i`d take the engine out and i won`t say do it properly because there`s no reason rings can`t be replaced properly if done right .
Your other post on heads ... again if it were me i would get a pair of later 10 bolt heads and match the ports , which includes the inlet manifold and use composite gaskets to retain the same comp ratio or tin to raise . The ports in these heads are much smoother and are a little larger and for a similar result would be much cheaper .
The only rover heads i`ve heard of failing are heads that have been ported because if not done right the alloy can be left too thin .
I don`t profess to be a motor mechanic anymore though i do have a piece paper that says i could .
Cheers
Peter
Last edited by PLR; 19th June 2008 at 10:38 PM. Reason: Cheers must end in s
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks