Thread: Do I need new wheel studs for 130 rims?

Oops . . . oh well. At least you re-read it and told us!

Yes, I think up until about '69 the studs were a bit smaller before they changed to the current size. They used to be just threaded into the hub and secured at the back with a weld. Sometimes the nut could get stuck to the stud and the whole thing would come out when undone. That's why I changed to SIII hubs.

The Wolf wheels are a heavier Defender-type wheel as used on the British Army "Wolf", or XD, Land Rover. I think they're a bit thicker and need the later studs.

Anyway, I'd better let you go as I expect Mediawatch will be after you for a comment now!

Originally Posted by Davo

The Wolf wheels are a heavier Defender-type wheel as used on the British Army "Wolf", or XD, Land Rover. I think they're a bit thicker and need the later studs.

Looking at the pictures I think it is just a 130 rim or perhaps a Bearmach copy. A lot of people refer to a the 130 rims as wolf wheels (including the guy who sold me mine!) although my understanding is the XD wheels are even more solid. (and heavy!!)

P.S. I have just had a job offer from "Today Tonight"

Yes. All Landrovers 1948 to Series 2a up to about 1970 (change date or chassis number is not specified in the parts book) use 9/16"BSF studs screwed into the hub and secured by staking on the inside. These were replaced initially by pull in serrated studs of the same diameter (rare) and then by M16 studs which are unchanged to the present.

There are several of possible problems, assuming the studs were the original :-

1. (most likely) With these screw in studs, when the nut seizes on the stud, as often happens if they are not lubricated, the stud unscrews from the hub, usually damaging the thread in the hub, as the staked bit on the stud is harder than the cast hub. After this happens a few times there is little thread left in the hub. Not a real problem if it is only one stud out of five, but get this on two or three.......

2. The brake drum had been replaced with one intended for the 16mm studs - this means the stud is not supported by the drum, and it is conceivable, although in my view unlikely, that this could lead to movement of the stud in the thread and eventual wear and failure of the thread.

3. While the standard Defender wheels are suitable for the older wheel nuts, it is possible that the Wolf wheels, never having been designed for use with the older, smaller nuts, may have had holes sufficiently larger that the wheel nuts tightened against the brake drum, leaving the wheel insecure, eventually wearing the holes in the wheel sufficiently for the nuts to fit through the holes.

John

wrong wheel nut tension pure and simple..

My RAG guide to wheel nut tensions.

old school rims (steel) get olds school tight (100 Ft Lb)
New school rims(ally) get new school tight (100Nm)



its not quite whats in the book but its close enough and if your torque wrench reads perfectly its within the acceptable variation.

When it comes to something as important as wheel nuts I would never advise people to take a chance.
I fitted longer studs to my hubs when I bought the WOLF rims and feel much safer knowing I have a decent number of threads doing their job.
Before I fitted them I noted that only 80% of the stud threads were being utterlised...this means that the full thread of the wheel nuts is not being used.
If you are applying the full amount of torque to a lasser amount of threads then you are running the risk of stretching them.

Don't risk it. Rover fitted them for a good reason IHMO.

I had a rear wheel come off the 110 a couple of weeks after leaving a workshop. It did no damage to the wheel studs. It taught me to keep an eye on that in the future. I now tighten them after a sevice. I am surprised that some need a tweak.

Re the wolf rim wheel studs, why so long? I know when wolf rims are fitted to a County the studs are not long enough to cover the nut thread, and that Defender wheel studs just cover the thread neatly. That seemed sufficient to me.