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Thread: Defender Hub Assembly

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Boonah
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    232
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha View Post
    Is this accurate though as it is not in the centre of the hub?
    Yep. The reason for using the 1/2 drive which slides along the bar is that you can get the bar through the two holes in the hub nut socket and have 1/2 inch drive in the centre. I know a photo would be good here

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
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    429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trout View Post
    Yep. The reason for using the 1/2 drive which slides along the bar is that you can get the bar through the two holes in the hub nut socket and have 1/2 inch drive in the centre. I know a photo would be good here
    Thanks for clarification I think I understand now.

    Will give it a go with my sidchrome sliding bar.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Huntly via Bendigo
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    446
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    If it is a td5 defender it will have a spacer between the bearings. You will need a hub nut socket (I made mine) and use a tension wrench to tighten to 150 ft pounds and it will be correctly adjusted. I have had trouble keeping the stake nut tight on my landy, so I clean the threads and put locktite on the threads and it also pays to use a new nut each time. Note this is for the TD5 models only. early models as per the earlier instructions. To make a socket I used a piece of 2" pipe a about 3" long. Get a bit of 1"x 3/16 flat, heat it and fold it around an old nut, weld the ends together. Then weld it to the end of the pipe. Fill the other end in and weld an old socket in the end to fit a tension wrench and you can drill a 1/2 hole through the side of the pipe for a bar to fit.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cherrybrook, Sydney
    Posts
    237
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    Thanks to all for responding. managed to get all the hubs done and was very easy to do.

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