Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: What would you do vis a vis ZF rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    VIC
    Posts
    3,536
    Total Downloaded
    0

    What would you do vis a vis ZF rebuild

    IF I decide to hold on to the Disco its going to need the gearbox dropped to replace the rear main (my repairer has elected this option and personally I'm happier with this than pulling the engine.)

    So basically would you rebuild the gearbox if it was out? Its got 230k on it, shifts perfectly, no hang in 1st, but still 230k is 230k.

    Also I'm not too sure of the stall speed on the Tdi automatic variant, it seems very high, does anyone know? I've gotten used to a 4L60E and it feels like 1500 rpm!! Is it possible to have a lower stall converter during the rebuild?


    My reasoning is don't rebuild it as you may well get another 70,000k out of it, but on the contrary whilst it's out it would save on doubled up labour costs to remove again later.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,078
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'd leave it well alone.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    I'd leave it well alone.
    ^^^

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,455
    Total Downloaded
    0
    How much would you actually save?

    I'd leave it alone to because even after some hang in first they can last years. You have to get use to it but it is still very drivable. And I have a feeling you will get rid of it before it needs to be rebuilt so don't put money like that in to it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    If it was me, i'd rather pull the engine forward to get to the rear main seal than to remove the auto and transfer. And i'd leave it alone too, no point paying 2-3K for something that doesnt need to be done yet- i thought as a student you'd have no money for all this expenditure anyway ?
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    If it was me, i'd rather pull the engine forward to get to the rear main seal than to remove the auto and transfer. And i'd leave it alone too, no point paying 2-3K for something that doesnt need to be done yet- i thought as a student you'd have no money for all this expenditure anyway ?
    Banks have plenty of money?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    VIC
    Posts
    3,536
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    If it was me, i'd rather pull the engine forward to get to the rear main seal than to remove the auto and transfer.
    I too have heard this is easier, but my repairer seems to think that its easier to do a box out job, probably because of the use of a hoist. RAVE lists the rear main job at 7 hours removing the gbox. Would you get enough clearance pulling the engine forward to get to the seal?

    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    i thought as a student you'd have no money for all this expenditure anyway ?
    LOL, you're right, I don't. See my signature, till I save a few G it's going to stay that way!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    th 4hp zfs driven nicely and regulalry serviced make 500k + easy unless you get water in them..

    before you pull the box drop its sump and eyeball the oil and the filter, If its good new filter new sump gasket seal it up, change the rear put it back and fill it up with oil...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    If there is enough room to replace a clutch and main seal on a rangie then there is enough space to change just the seal on a tdi .
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #10
    mcrover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    If there is enough room to replace a clutch and main seal on a rangie then there is enough space to change just the seal on a tdi .
    It is way easier to pull the engine regardless of if you have a hoist.

    It's not the sort of box that you can just hoist up on your shoulder and trans Jacks are most of the time more suited to car trans than heavy 4wd/truck trans.

    Pulling a Tdi out isnt that hard, nowhere near as much crap on it as there is on a V8 and a lot more room around it to work and all you need is either a Gantry (the easiest way) or a high lift engine crane.

    Im pretty sure after removing the radiator etc you could probably just move the engine forward and do it but I prefer in cases like that to pull it out, clean it up and do a few of the fiddly jobs while its out and it gives you a chance to check out all the odds and sods in the engine bay that you normally dont get a good look at with the donk in place.

    Leave the Trans, do as Dave said and it will last another 250000k, mines done 300000k of thrashing, previous owners (2 of) towed vans around Oz and then my 4wding for the last 120000k has left it with a buggered sprag but you can drive around that easy enough as it doesnt do it all the time.

    It's starting to get a couple of leaks now so it looks like I will get it rebuilt in the next year or so but Im in no hurry.

    By the way, dont rely on dealer times, they are allways nowhere near accurate and are only there to put pressure on their techs to pump out more work.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!