Engine wont start

**blitz** · 5th August 2008, 01:37 PM

I really need help here.

My 3.9 V8i wont start, it has been slowly getting worse for a while now. It was a bit slow to fire up and then it would run rough for a bit but after playing with the throttle it would pick up and run fine. Then it started to play up when stopped at lights or stop signs, it would hunt and sometimes stall.

Now it wont fire at all?

I have spark, fuel and compression (only 90 psi) but that is not the problem.

Since I couldnt work out what was wrong I took it to the mechanics, paid 1800k and nothing is any different except now I have a new starter motor and fuel pump.

any thoughts as I am ready to burn it.

Blythe

mike 90 RR · 5th August 2008, 01:46 PM

Hi Blitz
Which model is it???

iff it's what i think it is ... no problem

**blitz** · 5th August 2008, 01:59 PM

Hi Mike it's a series I 94 crossover model so even though the vin number says it has a serpentine belt oon it really it has 5 vee belts on the front it also has the 93 dash but everything else is the 94 model.

Blythe

mike 90 RR · 5th August 2008, 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by blitz

Hi Mike it's a series I 94 crossover model so even though the vin number says it has a serpentine belt oon it really it has 5 vee belts on the front it also has the 93 dash but everything else is the 94 model.

Blythe

Sorry ... Thought it was a RRC

Below are the things that i have pickup on why it won't start

1: Volt drop on the coil // Although you have spark ... you don't have enough volt supply ... Feed the coil via a relay so power comes from the battery
2: It's the dizzy cap or rotor button
3: It's the "Amplifier" off the dizzy .... they slowly drop out and get worse
4: It's the ECU
5: Its the MAF
6: The "Spider Alarm" is stuffed // cold joints // need to bridge it out
7: Worn cam chain // just too much slack

Sorry for the list .... Let me know your "pick"
I have someone else with the same drama you are describing

Mike

**blitz** · 5th August 2008, 02:37 PM

I have replaced the following:
new leads, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor and coil.

the mechanic replaced the fuel pump and starter motor.

Blythe

mike 90 RR · 5th August 2008, 03:41 PM

OK That leaves this in the list

Item 2 removed ... Check the volts at the coil .. Your hunting the same reading as the battery .... If it shows 1 volt less ... then direct wire it to battery

The Amp is not a bad pick of the bunch
The ECU & MAF // Borrow to try // Don't buy untill you are sure
Spider gets a cold joint (apparently)

Below are the things that i have pickup on why it won't start

1: Volt drop on the coil // Although you have spark ... you don't have enough volt supply ... Feed the coil via a relay so power comes from the battery
2: ............
3: It's the "Amplifier" off the dizzy .... they slowly drop out and get worse
4: It's the ECU
5: Its the MAF
6: The "Spider Alarm" is stuffed // cold joints // need to bridge it out
7: Worn cam chain // just too much slack

Mike

mike 90 RR · 5th August 2008, 03:51 PM

Another thought
If you have spark but low compression .... Try flooded motor ... Dry out some plugs & Start car with foot flat to floor

And get a Auto spark to test for any volt drop issues

**Tank** · 5th August 2008, 05:36 PM

Have you considered the fuel pressure regulator on the injector fuel rail or the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve on the back of the plenum, or the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV system) it may need a clean out, check the plug to the MAF, clean the terminals and make sure it is a tight fit, any of the above could be the problem, Check the MAF, then the IAC then the PVC system and last the Fuel reg. Let us know if you fix it and what the problem was, Regards Frank.

**Blknight.aus** · 5th August 2008, 06:24 PM

you could also have low volts at the fuel pump... dodgy connections and earths can do this to you as well.

**justinc** · 5th August 2008, 06:48 PM

Blitz,

Early D1's (Pre update)don't get the spider. (Thank goodness!)
I would check the coil voltage, should be at least 10.5V cranking/ 12V at rest with ignition switched on. Check the spark is a nice BLUE cracking spark, Check it at a plug lead, then if the distributor rotor button is at fault then the lead spark will be weak. Remove and check the spark plugs for fouling, and if soaked in fuel, replace them., Sometimes soaked plugs, even dried out, can still not fire properly. The important thing with these 14CUX systems is that the coolant temp sensor can in extreme cases tell the ECU that the engine temp is BELOW freezing, when it isn't. This can lead to excess fuel during cranking and start up, and flooding. Basically, if the plugs are wet, then it is more likely an electronic / sensor fault than a mechanical fault.

If there is no fuel fouling evident, then a noide lamp on an injector during cranking on each injector bank (These systems fire one whole injector bank the the other alternately) will tell you whether or not an injector driver has failed on the ECU circuit board, another fault that can occur with these early ECU's.

This will make them almost impossible to start

Keep looking, Give me call at work if you like, 0408 995 635 (BH)and I might be able to help further.

JC

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