Reply With QuoteTD5? They will run on a default value with MAF disconnected.Originally Posted by PAT303
V8 running rich could be O2 sensors or MAF
OldBushie
The bosses disco has started to run rough and the tail pipe is sooty so it's running rich so I disconnected the maf as it was running and there was no change at all,it kepted running.I thought it should have stopped so the maf lookeds like it's buggered so can I get a reco or buy new?.I have cleaned the connections but is there anything else that I should clean before buying a replacement?. Thanks Pat
TD5? They will run on a default value with MAF disconnected.
V8 running rich could be O2 sensors or MAF
Master
Is there any way to test the MAF on the TD5? I'm suss on mine too.
AT REST
Pat is it a V8? If so check the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve on the back of the plenum chamber, see if it is loose, take it off and clean (decoke, desludge) valve and the seat in the plenum, Regards Frank.
Got a Nanocom?
In Rave theres resistance test specs given (somewhere I cant remember where)
But nanocom should show a reading of the MAF....
Check your idle value and let me know...
OldBushie
Sorry it's a 3.9.If the MAF is working shouldn't it go into rich mode or stop if it's disconnected?.I'm fitting a new valley gasket in two weeks and I'm cleaning,replacing all the parts that cause poor idle,rough running while I'm at it.I want it right as I'm chassis dynoing it to get it spot on on both petrol and gas. Pat
AT REST
Pat, I used to have trouble with my V8 Disco running rich and spluttering at idle, belching out black smoke and stinking of fuel, I also could remove the MAF plug and the car would still idle (roughly).
First thing I did was check the IAC valve on the back of the plenum, it was loose, the 3 bolts (allen head) were finger tight, tightened them up for a small improvement. Removed IAC valve and cleaned with carby cleaner, also seat in plenum body, this fixed the problem for a few weeks when poor idle returned, removed the MAF plug, wire brushed (brass wire brush) the plug pins and spread them a bit with a small flat bladed screwdriver, cleaned the female plug connectors with Contact cleaner and cleaned the "Hot" wires with MAF cleaner, that was 18 months ago and haven't had a problem since.
Read on this forum somewhere that you can get MAF's repaired (if it's buggered), might pay to do a search, hope this helps, Regards Frank.
OldBushie
Thanks Tank.so there is a specific MAF cleaner?.I would rather clean it than replace it. Pat
AT REST
Yes it is similar to carby cleaner, except it is called MAF cleaner, or something like that, I used carby cleaner on mine, you spray it into the hole where the hot wires are. I think the section where the plug goes to can be opened and checked, have seen pics of them with the top off, i'm sure there was a story on the forum somewhere, maybe do a search under MAF, Regards Frank.
Swaggie
Pat,
We use a product by CRC called CO contact cleaner. It is for cleaning PCB's and other electrical contacts without leaving residue.
With the 3.9, also make sure it has a working thermostat, and that the coolant temp sensor isn't faulty.
Don't forget that if you remove the MAF plug or any other plug while the engine is running, you will have to do a reset otherwise the fault will remain even after it is plugged back in again. It is easy with the 14CUX system, just turn the engine off for 15 secs, or until you hear a relay 'click' under the drivers seat in a RR, and behind the drivers kickpanel in the D1.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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