Just wondering if you have anything, like, Spotties, High Mount Winch or anything else blocking air-flow into engine bay, if so, may be the cause, Regards Frank.
ALL of the heat comes from the motor, where else could it come from!
The engine and radiator are cooled by air passing over them, if you block the air the engine interior and exterior will get hotter than if there was free and ample airflow, DOH! Thats why cars have them big holes at the front, Regards Frank.
Hi Tank
I think that the radiator is keeping the block cool enough .... but the flame of the burn is way too hot .... The radiator can control this extra heat but it does not cool the exhaust manifold ... so therefore the manifold cannot cope with the extra heat
You know about the bit on ... "IF you run it too lean you will burn a hole in the top of the piston" .... That is the risk of what is going on here
Mike
I don't think that anyone has yet suggested that your centrifugal advance may be frozen.
The fact you advanced to 16 degrees and it runs cooler suggests it is a retard issue.
Grab the rotor and see if it moves freely by something AFAIR about 3-4 MM. and then springs back.
Regards Philip A
just checked that then when putting the reco'd vac advance unit on (highly recommend performance ignitions in nunawading!), definately moves freely by roughly 4-5mm and springs back nicely.
Took it for a drive, still on 15-16deg BTDC and everything seems to be ok, can't get it to ping even if i try which is a good sign, mixtures seem spot on and pipes don't glow so i'm happy to leave it as is for now and just drive it and see how i go.
Thanks to everyone who replied.
cheers,
Cal.
1986 Range Rover Hiline
2004 D2 TD5
Are you controlling timing with your MS? sorry I can;t remember
If not, just advance it till it pings then retard it a little, if it struggles to crank once this is done, you'll need to retard it till its fine as its still to far advanced
Vacuum advance merely improves economy and rich running, it wont heat your headers like that
Have you checked your mechanical advance is working right?? simply disconnect the vac line and rev it with a timing light, you should see ROUGHLY 30-35 degrees @3-3500rpms, then do as mentioned at the start![]()
nah MS is only controlling fuel at this stage, will go spark control one day.
seemed to be advancing up around that mark with the vac line off so seems all good there.
doesn't ping, starts fine, coolant temp is fine and drives well so i'm happy with it as it stands, will clock up some more k's and see how i go. might advance it till it pings sometime just so i have a referance point of how far i can go.
1986 Range Rover Hiline
2004 D2 TD5
Have to disagree, the only time I ever had Glowing exhaust manifolds, was when driving in Bulldust between Julia Ck. and Hughenden in my ZB Fairlane back in the 70's, was cruising at 60mph+ when noticed floor was getting hot and could smell melting tar. Pulled over and lifted bonnet and both exhaust manifolds and exhaust pipes were glowing almost white hot, the insect screen I had stretched across the entire grill was blocked solid with grass seeds and bulldust.
Water temp. was only just a tad above normal and ignition timing was spot on, shook out the screen, reinstalled and drove hard for another hour, noticed heat again and tar smell, lifted bonnet pipes a glowing again.
Had to stop every hour and clean screen till I reached the bitumen road.
So my glowing pipes were not from ignition timing or problems but from restricted air around engine, radiator was getting enough air to survive, Regards Frank.
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