Funny,both the patrol diff's,held in very high regard by many here that I have personally seen break both let go on the tar,one driving out of sydney airport,the other on the highway outside Alice springs. Pat
It had to happened sooner or later
From a 450HP Rotary to 600HP Turbo 6's to 800HP V8 I had to break a LR drive shaft the front one to be exact.
And of all places on the M4 not in the tranquil wattagans or the mountainous Lithgow or even the rural Appin no on the M4 a vibration followed by larger Vibration then stopped with traffic then started to calmly proceed and nothing no forward no drive no high range no low range
It has clearly sheared of the uni cage of the transfer case side
Mmmmm what now, any recommendations to who build the best drive shifts in Sydney, ill get the both done.
On the weekend I saw a guy’s truck he had a CV joint instead of Uni Joint has any body ever heard of thatcome one come all next will be the half shaft or the CV I bet
Funny,both the patrol diff's,held in very high regard by many here that I have personally seen break both let go on the tar,one driving out of sydney airport,the other on the highway outside Alice springs. Pat
week end prior I was at wattagans about B C grade tracks luckly didnt snap there
The CV's (as in CV, not what the Yanks call a DC joint) are usually used when they need to pull a very high angle out of the tailshaft.
You got lucky though, its defiantely not the first to break and they sometimes smash the gearbox when they go.
Locally, I used to use Metropolitan Driveshafts in Granville. Expensive, but same day turn around. Ive just heard that Spicer in Moorbank are doing DC upgrades and the price sounded good.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
I’ve pulled both drive shafts out this arvo, the rotor flex thing on the rear is like brand new it hasn’t stiffened up as I would imagine it would on a 9 year old fourby but wondering if I should fix that up to
I remember once if I’m not mistaken Slunnies said he got alot of vibration and said that the rotor flex was better option but didn’t preform as well off road.
As for as the front I have smashed the double carden casing where the uni joint clip on
the big question is do I go the whole hog and do both while I’m at it, also keeping in mind a set 34 inch Simex are due any day, Do I spare the cash and wait till the rear one also fails. The problem is due to not having CDL the fourby does not move when the shafts are broken
Knowing that once this is fixed the half shafts or the CV is next
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scott,
when you say monthly inspection what are we looking for?, i have read the other posts on this matter and nothing is mentioned.
Is it movement or broken metal that is the main thing to keep an eye out for?
cheers
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I would suggest make sure there greased up and there no play that why mine broke it dried out and snap![]()
Unfortunately, the genuine shafts don't have greasable DC joints, which is why they fail.
I would say the best way to check is to try & get movement out of the joint, just like a normal universal joint.
There might also be tell tale rust residue around the cross shafts if there is movement.
Scott
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