Better off running a heavier duty cable with a 20A fuse direct from the battery to a rear socket.
Does anybody know how to rewire the Discovery 2 rear 12volt auxillary outlet from working only with the ignition ON or on ACC, to being live all the time?
Better off running a heavier duty cable with a 20A fuse direct from the battery to a rear socket.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
x 2
You will have to re run the wires to a live wire or battery anyway to get the effect you want. So leave the existing plug and as said run a heavy duty gauge wire with a 20 amp in line fuse and a marine or hella style plug.
What are you wanting to run off the plug? I am assuming a fridge?
If so a good marine plug is the way to go, that has a screw connector to avoid the cable from becoming unplugged. About $15 - $20 from memory from most auto sparkys or boat shops. About $40 will do the whole job.
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Last edited by CraigE; 11th October 2008 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Pic Of Marine Plug
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
Just following on from dm_td5’s post, if your running just one power socket, then use nothing less than 6mm Auto ( 4.5mm2 ) Twin, for both Positive and Negative and fit a 20 amp fuse at the battery.
The reason for a 20 amp fuse is that any smaller and you run at maximum current for the cable, you will heat and in extreme cases can melt a smaller fuse.
You will need to remove a bit of trim, but its not that hard. When I had my Disco I ran the wires basically along the door sills and up the wheel arch under the carpet to the back. You could also run under the carpet, along the roof line or under the car along the chassis to the back (you will require plastic shielding to protect the wiring and you should run as high as possible if using this method). There are plenty of bits to cable tie to under the car, just dont attach to anything that may move or pinch. You will probablly find wiring running along the chassis area that you can attach to anyway.
I personally would not use the standard 10amp factory plug for anything other than the smallest fridges as I have seen wiring melt and fuses melt or blow. I would keep that for a general power outlet and add a heavy duty one for the fridge.
With the work involved in modding the existing wiring you may as well just put a new one in.
Cheers
CraigE
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
If you don't want to remove much trim and go through the firewall grommet the other option is to run down the chassis rail underneath and come up through the rubber grommet which is in either rear conner at the back of the Disco.
Depending on what your connecting I would use:
Engel socket - Genuine Engel screw in fit as it is recessed
Hella Marine - as they also screw in but not recessed.
Merit socket - give a good positive click in fit and reasonably flush fit
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
With your new wiring it might also be a good idea to add a low battery cut out, unless your conecting to a second battery.
Cheers
David
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