Maxidrive Non Lock

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Originally Posted by r.over

I think you will find that they were becoming more expensive to make in the steel grade that he used. Therefore there was not much money in them unless you dropped the quality.

One thing that was not well designed in them is that you cannot easily pull the axles if you break a C&P and want to drive home in two wheel drive. Leaving the axle in means that the wheel will turn the centre and risk getting metal all through the locker and causing damage.

Whether Maxi-drive were better quality or not is largely irrelevant. If a Holden is all you need and does everything you want, does it really matter that a Merc is better engineered.

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What a load of crap. Steel price had jack to do with it as i actually discussed various things regarding the sale with Mal.

I have driven home with a CW&P broken no problems. Pull the short axle out and retract the long axle enough so its out of the hemisphere and seal up with a rag and cable ties.

If you dont know dont comment.

I think your locker problems are carma related , not mechanical
Justin

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Yea, like I said, you know your stuff, but does an ARB help with Crown wheel and pinion strength??, so WTF is your point?, don;t get into swings and round abouts with me, babe:D

Someone is going to fall off

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I thought that your comment meant that you did not think that the ability to remove axles was that important. I was just attempting to highlight that once you have fitted maxi-drive components it is likely to be relevant.

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Originally Posted by DRanged

What a load of crap. Steel price had jack to do with it as i actually discussed various things regarding the sale with Mal.

If you dont know dont comment.

Justin

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Maybe you should ask again and adhere to your own advice. He had to buy the steel he used in larger and larger quantities to get a reasonable price.

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Originally Posted by r.over

I thought that your comment meant that you did not think that the ability to remove axles was that important. I was just attempting to highlight that once you have fitted maxi-drive components it is likely to be relevant.

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Well, aside from those that fit them to Salisbury rear end, MOST people I know that fit them to rover rear end's don't break crown wheels and pinions, (me included now:() or they convert to Nissan, H233 rear diff;s or lux conversions, or get over their rover and buy a GQ (Y60):eek:

on the maxi topic mine have started to take a little while to activate i have had the maxi for 9 years fitted by mal and im going to put it in the county and wondering if it would activate quicker with the v8 than the tdi due to a stronger vacuum

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Originally Posted by defmec

on the maxi topic mine have started to take a little while to activate i have had the maxi for 9 years fitted by mal and im going to put it in the county and wondering if it would activate quicker with the v8 than the tdi due to a stronger vacuum

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Stronger Vacuum? one has a vacuum pump, the other relies on engine vacuum, they both have to operate a vacuum assisted servo for the brakes, so its neither here nor their;)

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Well, aside from those that fit them to Salisbury rear end, MOST people I know that fit them to rover rear end's don't break crown wheels and pinions, (me included now:() or they convert to Nissan, H233 rear diff;s or lux conversions, or get over their rover and buy a GQ (Y60):eek:

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Do you just like twisting things around. I did not say they will break, I said they become the weakest point in the rear. So if something is going to break, it will be a C&P.

If the C&Pis not an issue, why have you quoted people shifting to other diff set-ups. It is not because the diff lock or maxi axles break. I also think that the Nissan stuff is over rated as I see it break very regularly. Why would you want to put jap stuff in a rover anyway?

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Originally Posted by r.over

Do you just like twisting things around. I did not say they will break, I said they become the weakest point in the rear. So if something is going to break, it will be a C&P.

If the C&Pis not an issue, why have you quoted people shifting to other diff set-ups. It is not because the diff lock or maxi axles break. I also think that the Nissan stuff is over rated as I see it break very regularly. Why would you want to put jap stuff in a rover anyway?

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1. so, yet again, WTF is your point?

2., I never said it was not an issue, nor is it, driving style dependant;), Nissan stuff may well be overrated, but its stronger than Rover stuff out the box

Your prattleing on about maxi's being worse off than ARB stuff, because you cannot withdraw the axle with the spline for the locking dog, easily fixed, bore the spindle, if you don;t want the crown wheel and pinion to break, peg it, or fit something stronger

Why put jap stuff in a rover?, your a smrt bloke, work it out:p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/10/209.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/10/210.jpg

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Originally Posted by DRanged

I have driven home with a CW&P broken no problems. Pull the short axle out and retract the long axle enough so its out of the hemisphere and seal up with a rag and cable ties.

Justin

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It took a couple of minutes for this to sink in. You pull the axle out of the diff centre so that there was no support for it at that end. You pulled it out at the drive flange end and therefore there was no support for it at that end either. So the axle would flop around inside the diff housing. Then you drove home with it secured to the hub with cable ties.

Are you actually recommending people do this:eek:

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Originally Posted by rovercare

easily fixed, bore the spindle

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The advice being handed out in this thread. I am assuming that you are actually suggesting that people bore out the centre of their stub axle so that the collar on the maxi-axle will fit out. Don't you think that this may weaken the stub axle, the thing that holds your wheel and brakes on.