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Thread: Replacing "P" gasket

  1. #1
    Lucas Guest

    Replacing "P" gasket

    Hi,
    I am about to tackle "P" gasket replacement, I have bought a metal gasket and the 3 galv finish bolts. The join started leaking after replacing the water pump.
    Prior to getting stuck into the job what other suprises should I look out for ???.
    Search yeilded little success.

    Lucas

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Christchurch NZ
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    I did mine a couple of weeks ago with a genuine parts metal gasket. I put it on dry and when i refilled the coolant it leaked really badly, so off it all came again and on went the red silicone on either side of the gasket. No leaks now.

    Instructions (with pictures)
    LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum > 300TDI p gasket
    1995 Defender 110 300TDI :D
    1954 86" Series 1 Automatic :eek:
    Ex '66 109" flat deck, '82 109" 3 door, '89 110 CSW V8, '74 Range Rover, '66 88" soft top, '78 88" soft top, '95 Disco ES V8, '88 Surf, '90 Surf, '84 V8 Surf, '91 Vitara.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
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    It's a fairly simple job but be methodical & take your time. It should take 2-3 hrs.

    IIRC, this is roughly what you need to do:

    1. Remove fan
    2. Remove serpentine belt
    3. Drain cooling system
    4. Remove hoses (inc intercooler)
    5. Remove alternator.
    6. Unbolt power steering pump & move to one side


    From here, you should be able to unbolt the offending section to get at the gasket...

    Once off, make sure you clean up both surfaces with a razor blade to make sure you're removed all remains of the old gasket.

    Refit is the reverse of what you've already done, just remember to use the newer, longer bolts around the 'P' gasket. (I personally also use copper slip on all the bolts to make they don't seize...)

    HTH

    M

  4. #4
    Lucas Guest
    Thanks for the replys.

    Changed it yesterday, ended up doing it with out removing the fan (could not get the blood thing off). Took @ 3 hours, I found out the hard way that the M* bolt at the bottom of the frame was a through bolt, I thought it was a stud that was threaded . Felt like a idiot after grinding the nut of .
    Look twice and not have to cut.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nanny state UK...
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    3,253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucas View Post
    I found out the hard way that the M* bolt at the bottom of the frame was a through bolt, I thought it was a stud that was threaded . Felt like a idiot after grinding the nut of .
    Look twice and not have to cut.
    LOL...

    M

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