Thread: Non LR HELP!

No idea's on the subject George

However, it sounds that you are about to have a Major problem and need to "get it right"

If possible .... I would by a Repair manual on the car .... before going any further

Mike

I hate half hour jobs that end up like this ...

I'd try squirting a lubricant in as far as you can along the thread of the bolt and then try rocking the bolt back and forth to free it up. A rattle gun would be good too, but you'd have to take it very gently so that you don't damage the thread in the crankshaft.

You'll also need to make sure that the engine is locked in position so you don't bend that valve that seems to be against a piston.

Good Luck.

Not sure about an answer but don't break the head off the bolt. When I had my mitsu 2.5, previous owner (or service centre) had used loctite that was too strong but the balancer was still coming loose as they are prone to do on these engines. I broke the head off the bolt and had to pull the engine and spend 3 nights drilling and clearing out the thread. What a hassle. Maybe just work it back and forth only tiny amounts to slowly get it out and really flood it with a solvent or lubricant as appropriate.
Tony

Originally Posted by George130

I now have a big problem with the parjero.
It's a 2.5 turbo diesel.
Issues are
Harmonic balance is stuffed. I have the bolt half undone but I can't get it out or to retighten. It also appears I have now managed to jump the timing belt enough so you can't turn the engine over! Last effort was my feet on the breajer bar and it killed the screwdriver jammed in the cogs and bent the needle pliers in the flywheel.
Any ideas on how to get the harmonic balance off so I can
1 replace it
2 re do the timing

I running out of ideas except for an industrial smelter to drip the thing into.

Found a manual for you

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/

Mike

Remove the started motor, make up something to bolt in there to lock the ring gear.
remove the radiator etc and cut the balancer off with an angle grinder without damaging the crank
put WD40 etc on the bolt overnight and try to screw it back in first, if that works run it in and out with lots of oil.
If it wont move, heat the nose of the crank. This will stuff the seals and probably the timing belt, but really so what.
If all else fails, boat anchor!

Drop the sump, jam a lump of 2x4 hardwood up against the casting and a crank counter weight and have at it.

try to back the thing off enough so that your not running on the interference of a valve and a piston head or thats bad...

Thanks for the ieas.
I have the workshop manual.
Just had a mechanic looking at it. We lubricated it. removed the starter motor and jamed the crank. No budging the bolt in either direction even with rattle guns. His comment is it an engine out job and quite possibly a new crank.
Been advised to price a replacement engine and just the crank. Fairly certain that whe nit came loose it managed to cross thread so even if we get it out the thread in the crank will be stuffed.
Think I need to go back to a model T or just be done with it and get a bike. That way I can kill myself before it needs any work done.

Originally Posted by George130

Thanks for the ieas.
I have the workshop manual.
Just had a mechanic looking at it. We lubricated it. removed the starter motor and jamed the crank. No budging the bolt in either direction even with rattle guns. His comment is it an engine out job and quite possibly a new crank.
Been advised to price a replacement engine and just the crank. Fairly certain that whe nit came loose it managed to cross thread so even if we get it out the thread in the crank will be stuffed.
Think I need to go back to a model T or just be done with it and get a bike. That way I can kill myself before it needs any work done.

Just a thought .... Why can't you just drill and tap that bolt out .... Just remove the radiator & Grill etc for access

just get the right tap & a big drill



When I looked for that manual ... went to Pajero 4x4 club of victoria, and dropped onto there "Technical section" and just about every page had something about a loose harmonic balancer ... AND that was for petrol & diesel

So it must something common

Mike