Thread: order of work?

First - I'd do the suspension. Reason for that is safety, wholey and soley. Have a chat to Slunnie or the other boys that have done the homework on this type of suspension set-up.

Second - dual batteries. Do it yourself and save a bundle of cash. It's easy to do - follow the bouncing ball. If you have troubles, post here and someone will help you.

Third - Winch bar and winch - waste of time putting it together before you have the batteries sorted. Stay with the wire cable. Unless you are going to be using it a hell of a lot, or you have a lot more money than me - then cable does the job. Fix the solenoid and fairlead whilst you are there.

Fourth - rims and tyres. Change to whatever size you are going to run.

Fifth - do the 4.11s. The reason I have this last, is that if you're going to the trouble to basically rebuild your diffs - you may as well do lockers at the same time. Do a search on what type of locker you want. I'm running ARB which is good, but it certainly isn't the only type available.

Last - get ready to start replacing axles, drive flanges and CV's

Cheers
Chris

Me......

1. Replace the shocks with long travel Bilsteins. I'm pretty sure inverted Landcruiser shocks will suit.... note, that this MUST be a monotube shock to do this. This will bring back the suspension control and handling and will also give you more travel.

2. Replace the winch solinoid with an Albright, Titan, Tigerz11 or whatever.... ditch the solinoids though. The titan will fit into the Warn box and reconnect to the Warn controller - maintain the 5 pin wiring though. If you get stuck I can send you a schematic on how to wire it. Fix the fairlead etc yourself.

3. Steering damper. Its cheap.... just fix it.

4. I would do diff locks and 4.11's all at the same time. It'll be cheaper to save up and do it this way as the diffs all have to be stripped anyway... just do it once. If its a bush truck, then I would (and did) use selectable lockers of whatever type. You will find situations where you specifically do or do not want locker action.

5. I would also consider HD axles and CV's depending on how you play or what tyres you're going to run. It sounds like it will run up to a 35' tyre. Its always much more fun to not break.

6. Dual batteries. As per CEWilson, just do it yourself. Buy a Redarc or whatever and just run the wires. Its really not difficult at all. The exy bit is the cost of the 2nd battery if you want a good deep cycle.

Here is how to rewire the solinoid with a Tigerz11 solinoid (same as the Titan unit.)

My opinion,

1. DIFF'S, DIFF'S, DIFF'S, lockers and ratios FIRST, this IS the bain of rovers, if you have the diff/axle combo sorted from the beginning, you'll be a happy puppy

2. ANything else, so long as you've done the DIFF'S first

thaks for the thoughts guys

Put together what you have andthen look at spending money.

Basically what Matt said.

Now as for lockers, you want to PM Rovercare and other folks like Clarkie who strip the odd rover and chase up a second hand maxi or airlocker with maxi axels if money is a problem before you build the diffs.

I would only do the rear but then it depends on how nasty you want to be to the rest of the truck depends on if you fit a front and HD CV's etc.

Most of the people I know with lockers are quite happy just having a rear and the guys that have fronts rarely use them in fear of breaking CV's etc.

Do shocks and damper as general maintenance and worry about tyres etc last.

A good reason to ditch the steel cable is weight but with a low mount you are likely to cook plasma on long pulls so be aware.

Also makesure if you get plasma you get the last bit shielded so it keeps as much dust out as possible and always keep it on the drum under a little load so it stays locked up.