Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: VNT Turbo install

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    157
    Total Downloaded
    0

    VNT Turbo install

    Hi All,

    I'm new to the forum but I've been lurking for a while.

    I've got an 03 Disco TD5. It's an Auto, 7 seater with ACE and I really like it.

    A couple of weeks back the turbo died on the way back from up country. It just lost power and I managed to limp home.

    The turbo looks to be a victim of over speed. The poor little thing had spun so hard the shaft had bent like a banana and the exhaust turbine impeller had contacted the housing wall and siezed solid. I thought it had done a bearing initially but on stripping it the bearings were fine. It had just bent and rubbed against the housing.

    I had the ECU flashed about a year ago and it ran really well up until this failure. Perhaps the extra boost in the new map contributed to it's demise. Who knows? I'm not that fussed about it. It just gives me the excuse to warm it up a bit.

    Rather than mess around with the tiny little stock turbo I've started installing a larger VNT turbo. I'm not so much looking for more power just better response and less lag.

    It's been a bit of messing round so far but I'll have some pics to post soon.

    The VNT uses boost pressure to an actuator to control the vanes on the exhaust housing so I don't need the boost modulator. I've plumbed a line into the intake manifold to control the VNT.

    Does any one know If I will get a trouble code if I just disconnect and remove the boost modulator solenoid?

    I'm also deleting the EGR setup while I'm at it. There is a vaccume operated throttle body in the intake along with the EGR valve. I'm assuming this is so the ECU can shut down the airflow to the engine in case of a runaway condition? Or does it serve some other purpose?

    Thanks for any help

    Cheers

    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    What model VNT turbo do you have, what's it originally off?

    Can't you use the original boost modulator to drive the pressure actuator on the VNT? The computer won't know the difference if it's just using pressure to regulate boost.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    557
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Mate,
    Not sure if this will help, but when you bypass the egr you can remove the vacume lines and wires attached to it.
    cheers
    The Entertainer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    157
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks guys,

    Not sure what the turbo was originally for. I bought it new from Ray at Turbo Engineering in Thomastown (TEC). It's the setup they have put on a bunch of TD5 defenders and Ray has done a fair bit of development with them. I asked about using the regular modulator to bleed of pressure and control the boost but Ray reckoned that it wasn't very stable in controling the VNT and a fixed connection was best.

    Last night I pulled all the EGR stuff off. I've removed the heat exchanger and will plumb it's coolant line back into the header tank. I like things to be as simple as possible. I'll cap both of the vaccum lines on the distribution block.

    I'm machining up an new connection to replace the EGR valve piece and I'll drill and tap it to take a barb for the VNT control. That way I don't have to drill and tap the manifold.

    I found 2 broken manifold studs when I pulled the exhaust manifold. I drilled them out and helicoiled them. I also machined the hell out of the exhaust manifold so hopefully it won't break any more studs.

    Cheers

    Michael

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Any model numbers on your turbo?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney, West
    Posts
    1,241
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Does any one know If I will get a trouble code if I just disconnect and remove the boost modulator solenoid?[/QUOTE]



    Hi mick, I worked on a xr6 turbo and we had a play with these modules, not sure if set up the same but. the ECM may get upset, you aren't disconnecting the boost pressure sensor are you, the ECM needs this for info in regards to fueling, from memory the ford had the boost sensor then the ECM would tell the solenoid to open or close. hope this helps mate

  7. #7
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,708
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Mick View Post
    Hi All,

    I'm new to the forum but I've been lurking for a while.
    So you are not to be confused with DiscoMick also on this forum?

    Welcome aboard DM2.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    157
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry, I didn't realize there was a DiscoMick on here already. My name's Michael and I own a Discovery so I tried a bunch of related user names and it accepted Disco Mick.

    Thanks for the welcome.

    Cheers

    Michael

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    157
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I tried creating a separate thread in the projects section as I thought it might be more appropriate. However it doesn't seem to have posted for some reason so I'll post the pics here. perhaps I haven't been on here long enough or something.

    Here's the exhaust manifold after I carved the webbing out of it on the mill.



    Hopefully this should stop it pulling against the studs so much. I also drilled out the bolt holes to give a bit more clearance around the studs.



    I left the bolt holes around the center exhaust port to maintain alignment with the ports.

    I've still got to face the manifold to give it a nice flat smooth surface to seal against the head.

    2 of the studs had to be drilled and helicoiled. The front one is a pain because you have to remove the AC compressor to get at it.

    I machined up the new intake connection to replace the EGR valve assembly. I turned it from a piece of 100mm diameter billet I had from another job. It turned out great and I'll post a pic when I get back from holiday. I've also been machining up the inlet and outlet flanges for the turbo. The inlet is done and it connects up nicely to the stock MAF pipe.

    The exhaust is proving to be a bit of a pain and I reckon I'll have to make a whole new down pipe with a new flex joint. It's just too tight to connect to the stock down pipe. From what I've read on here the stock stainless exhaust bellows is a bit of a restriction anyway.

  10. #10
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,708
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Hi Mick, things like that happen with user names.

    Re the article, it is in Projects and tutorials, that where I saw it.

    I'll double check.....

    Yep, it's there but it's moderated. It may not be visible until the Admins release it (you being a new member, you have restricted rights until you've posted a little more).

    The issue of the breaking studs is, as you've found, well known. The removal of the webs is something we've known about for a short time now.

    See TD5 Manifold Fix (from Tombie2 of this forum)

    I wonder why LR hadn't sussed that when they built the engine.

    It's good you have a mill to be able to remove the webbing. I'd love a mill.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!