Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: 300tdi Head Studs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    109
    Total Downloaded
    0

    300tdi Head Studs

    I realize that there is a specific tightening procedure for the 300tdi head studs, but I wonder has anyone ever noted the actual Nm value at the studs (both 12 and 10mm) in the final angular turn.

    My reason for asking is that last week I checked the tappet clearance, no change from previous, but at the same time I did an "armstrong" check on the head studs.
    All the 12mm studs were quite firm, ie no movement at about 50Nm, but at considerably less than that I was able to turn the 4x10mm studs at least a 1/6 turn, could have gone more without real effort. (all original fixings, 190000km.)

    I am wondering does the 300 tdi have the same propensity to stretch head studs as has the td5. (both alloy head)
    I notice that the 300 tdi has the same stud configuration as my 2.25 diesel (CI head) which has never had a gasket issue.

    If anyone has and can provide a value, I will fully check with the torque wrench, better to be aware and safe than sorry.
    Thanks llandro

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
    Posts
    3,724
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The 300Tdi has bolts not studs.

    50 Nm is a very low torque value for the M12 head bolts.

    For high bolt pre-load, variation in friction between mating threads and bearing surfaces (under bolt head and the like) gives unacceptable variation in developed tension for a prescribed tightening torque. That is why the prescribed torque method has been replaced by an angle of turn method.

    There is computer controlled tightening equipment, but for us there is no useful way to know, what the bolt/thread friction may be for you head bolts that have been in service for so long. Hell you can't be confident for bolts that have been stored on a shop shelf.

    I doubt there is a problem with 300Tdi head bolts stretching. IMHO, the problems that occur with loss of gasket clamping load, result from overheating of the aluminium head.

    Even when gaskets and bolts are renewed, there can be problems with heads that have been overheated - it is best to have the hardness of the head tested and re-heat treat if soft spots are found.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    109
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Bush65
    Thanks for your reply bush, and an apology for my nomenclature.
    From my background, I have always called a threaded fastener with a nut "a bolt". One that fixes into a "deep threaded hole' (ie, cylinder head or similar) a "stud"'
    A little bit like "socket head cap screws", so often called "hex head studs"
    So it is the head "bolts" I am asking about.
    If the head bolts are prepared as per the W/Shop manual, and the initial torque figure is given as 40Nm for all "bolts", then plus 60* + 60* etc. there is going to be a final rotational torque figure in Nm. for all of them, has to be if only an average. It may vary from bolt to bolt and engine to engine, but I dont think very much.
    So the answer will be in my own w/shop, will get some identical "bolts", create a similar hold down situation, and find out exactly what the torque wrench figures are.
    And hopefully my head gasket will last the engine out!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
    Posts
    3,724
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You may be able to get similar tightening torque values from a few tests, but that it will most likely be very different when you want to verify the bolt tension by applying torque to a bolt that has been in service, and gone through many heating and cooling cycles.

    The simple fact is, as I stated, specified torque is unreliable at high bolt tensions. Even at moderate tension, the accuracy is around +/- 25% of desired tension. Of the common methods for tensioning bolts, it is only better than operator feel in terms of accuracy.

    Land Rover and other engine manufactures can easily do what you propose, and if it was suitable, then why have they not used specified torques?

    Much research has been done on this and the results are all the same.

    In this country, it is Not Permissible to use torque control to tighten bolts in steel structures, except under specific controls that are generally not worthwhile give alternative methods of tensioning bolts (reference Australian Standard 4100 - Steel Structures Code). There are several methods allowed including the part turn method.

    It would save a lot of money (many thousands of dollars on some jobs) if it was possible to verify that bolt had been tensioned correctly by someone using a torque wrench. Unfortunately we have to resort to much more expensive methods.

    If you want to rely on your torque wrench go ahead - no one will get hurt.

  5. #5
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    NE Victoria
    Posts
    1,414
    Total Downloaded
    32.83 MB
    I've recently done a head gasket on mine, if I had to take a guess I'd say about 20-30KG on a 1.2 metre pipe maybe a bit less.
    So if my maths is right in the 250-350 Nm range. That's on new oiled bolts in clean threaded holes.

    Tony

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    208
    Total Downloaded
    0
    holy cripes batman you need eat more weetbixDoing up to the specified torque plus doing the angle stages is relatively easy with standard size torque wrench. Extension bar that long you should be able to do it with your little finger

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
    Posts
    3,724
    Total Downloaded
    0
    IMHO, Tony's estimated torque is in the ballpark.

    And there is nothing wrong with using a long handle for that job, as it allows more control and a better outcome.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    109
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Tony says he could have tightened his head bolts to 250-350 Nm.
    Bush65 agrees this could be a "ball park" figure.
    My conversion indicates that 300Nm (mid point) = 220ft.lb. of torque.
    Methinks a trifle much for a 12mm (1/2"nom.) bolt, they would be well stretched at that tension.
    The specified torque for the s111 L/R diesel engine 1/2" head bolts, identical configuration, is 90ft.lb. = 122Nm. (I realise it is a C/I head, not al.)
    ?? still remain.
    llandro

  9. #9
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    NE Victoria
    Posts
    1,414
    Total Downloaded
    32.83 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by llandro View Post
    Tony says he could have tightened his head bolts to 250-350 Nm.
    Bush65 agrees this could be a "ball park" figure.
    My conversion indicates that 300Nm (mid point) = 220ft.lb. of torque.
    Methinks a trifle much for a 12mm (1/2"nom.) bolt, they would be well stretched at that tension.
    The specified torque for the s111 L/R diesel engine 1/2" head bolts, identical configuration, is 90ft.lb. = 122Nm. (I realise it is a C/I head, not al.)
    ?? still remain.
    llandro
    Hi llandro,
    I'm happy to be corrected.
    Bear in mind I was paying little attention to how tight I was doing them, just the angles.
    I was just trying to help with your question of converting the angle tension to a torque number.
    A quick Google search gives 100 Ft/Lbs for a grade 12.9 bolt and 151 Ft/Lbs for Cummins 12mm head bolts, so it would seem that my estimation is probably to high.

    Maybe if your worried about them, the head should come off and the problem fixed properly.

    A Merry Christmas to All, and may you all get lots of goodies for your trucks.


    Tony

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    109
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Tony.
    No, I have no problems yet, touch wood, but the fact that the 4 10mm bolts were not very tight (as I said, the "armstrong" method) just makes me wonder.
    Mine has never overheated but did loose some coolant very gradually which was a loose heater hose connection.
    But what does arouse my concern is that I noticed after the first timing belt change (prolonged bleeding of the cooling system, bah!) that when the engine was revved to around 1500 a string of bubbles appear in the header tank.
    They dont ever get more, never less, the tank has no more than a normal hiss if I take the cap off when hot.
    It could be one of those "landy" things, she runs like a clock, never wait for the glowplug relay, instant "2nd. piston up" start, summer or winter!
    I wonder what made your gasket let go?
    Perhaps I should forget the whole thing, wish you and all the other Landy folk out there a "Happy Christmas & a Bountiful New Year" and rip into it myself!
    llandro

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!