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Triangulated upper and lower 4 link, similar to the rear, but with more triangulation on the lowers. (i spent 2 hours under Peter antornacs new car with a tape measure and sketch pad, so the final setup will be very very similar).Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Andy
Nice stuff Andy! No bumpsteer! Are you looking to do fast stuff with it also?Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew e
Is that correct that Petes has the lowers triangulated with the join in the middle of the diff, and the uppers are seperated to the outside of the diffs? I recall thinking thats what he had and wondered how durable it will be with portals in comparison to wide lowers on the axle and joined uppers on the axle. Perhaps I saw it wrong.
No. 7:1 diff/portal ratios make it a bit hard. But gee it wouls be fun!Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
No, the front lowers are together on the chassis end, and wider on the diff. Uppers are opposite, however he could only manage around 200mm separation in the uppers, due to the engine position, i hope to get more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Andy
Ok, i am going to start up a list of parts i need, so if anyone hears or sees some being sold at a good price let me know.
17x9 internal beadlocks
10 inch double ended aloy hydraulic ram x 2.
dry sump scavenger pump, need a 6 stage/segment which is hard to come by, or a common brand (morso etc) 4 stage pump, so i can add segments.
Mog 406 pinion conversion (i may have one of these lined up)
Haltec or good suitable engine ecu (i know nothing about these, so please help with advice)
Roller cam kit for a 4.6.
defender firewall top corner rust repair sections (can get new, but wheres the best price)
30m of plasma rope
42x17 irok tyre x1
Andy
I am working on this a bit more lately, as i have too many projects on the go. (2 jobs, this thing, a bush ranger, a 90, a 62 valiant, and a 68 factory v8 monaro... wife, house, 2 kids......).So an hour a day keeps the doctor away.
Anyway. Today i finished tacking in the 4 link rear. I have set the bumpstop chassis rail height at 15" and will be running a normal ride height of 20". I have been told that its always best to build a car at bumpstop height, as you have more of an idea of angles and clearances. The top link mounts are only temporary, as i an not 100% sure how the pinion will act at full articulation. There are 4 link calculators on the net, but i cannot ge them to work.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/08/839.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/08/840.jpg
I also measured the clearance between the ground and the axle tube (to make some stands) and its 57cm with the 42s. Does anyone have the stock rover measurement?
I also bought one of these
3/4" NEW Steering Wheel Quick Release Hub Racecar IMCA:eBay Motors (item 390080728779 end time Sep-10-09 08:43:15 PDT)
and i will be doing a writeup on fitting it to a stock defender steering wheel, as soon as i can get the dam thing off. It has ben under water in the past..... so the spline needs a bit more soaking.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/08/841.jpg
tomorrow i hope to get a start on the tubework for the rear, but i may not get much done, depends on how many p38 bits i need to send out.
Andy
AndyQuote:
Originally Posted by andrew e
Andy any updates?
any updates ? getting close ?
Jeff
He's gone all soft and bought a Range Rover L322;)
Baz.
The Mogs will look awesome on that!Quote:
Originally Posted by Redback