Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Yesterday we checked the Timing again with the Strobe light and the Timing is spot on Could it be a faulty MAF sensor causing Rough Idling and back Firing , once it's nice and hot it runs Great....

Khos,
if the MAF sensor is faulty the ECU just reverts to "Limp home Mode" and uses an internal map and the TPS. From my own experiments this map is richer than the scaling of the MAF so you should not have backfire problems , as these are usually from lean conditions.

If it runs well when hot, If I were you I would look at whether you have plugged in the temp sensor and the TPS correctly.

Check that you have not put the temp sensor plug on number 2 injector and vice versa as they are close to each other and have the same plug, although the wires are usually "hardened" into the correct position.

It is often hard to pick a single cylinder miss in a V8 as the stepper will increase the idle to the the target revs anyway.
Regards Philip A

Things that I had done wrong and I didn't know were faulty or not working properly

which have now been fixed ;

1) There was Vacuum leaking from the ram tube, also the tubes were fitted back to front.

2) The Throttle Butterfly was sticking and Throttle switch not set up correctly.

3) Replaced the Rotor Button inside the Distributor with the Genuine Landrover ( Lucas ) part No: ( STC1857) apparently the Rotor Button fitted previously was an aftermarket unit and it wasn't quite up to the Job.

4) After Market ignition Module for the Gas was Nakked, replaced the Module with a Factory unit.part No: ( STC 1857).


Well, the old girl is now back on road and running great around the expansion tank is Dry as a Bone after a long drive no more coolant sprayed around the engine bay.


Thanks to all of you who've taken the time out to help me out with this Build. and I have learnt a lot from pulling heads off in a Rover V8.... like next time I'll take it to a Mechanic to do the Job hahah , Just Kidding.. I loved every minute of working on my Rover.

Quitting was never an Option

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Things that I had done wrong and I didn't know were faulty or not working properly

which have now been fixed ;

1) There was Vacuum leaking from the ram tube, also the tubes were fitted back to front.

2) The Throttle Butterfly was sticking and Throttle switch not set up correctly.

3) Replaced the Rotor Button inside the Distributor with the Genuine Landrover ( Lucas ) part No: ( STC1857) apparently the Rotor Button fitted previously was an aftermarket unit and it wasn't quite up to the Job.

4) After Market ignition Module for the Gas was Nakked, replaced the Module with a actory unit.part No: ( STC 1857).


Well, the old girl is now back on road and running great around the expansion tank is Dry as a Bone after a long drive no more coolant sprayed around the engine bay.


Thanks to all of you who've taken the time out to help me out with this Build. and I have learnt a lot from pulling heads off in a Rover V8.... like next time I'll take it to a Mechanic to do the Job hahah , Just Kidding.. I loved every minute of working on my Rover.

Quitting was never an Option

Tubes back to front... That's something I'd do. Good to hear its alive again. You sure did put 100% effort into the work you did there from what I had seen Well done and a worth wile thread for future reference.

So now you can come and do the head gaskets on my 3.9 and stick the blower on it Don't forget to bring that fancy hex socket

Tony

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Tubes back to front... That's something I'd do. Good to hear its alive again. You sure did put 100% effort into the work you did there from what I had seen Well done and a worth wile thread for future reference.

So now you can come and do the head gaskets on my 3.9 and stick the blower on it Don't forget to bring that fancy hex socket

Tony

Sweeet , you put the beers on and I'll be on my way also if you still wanting a 7/32" Allen head socket or// a Full set let me know. I'll bring em up.

seriously what's wrong with your motor ? is it leaking coolant ? or is colling system pressurising ?? or are you taking the ****s ..

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Sweeet , you put the beers on and I'll be on my way also if you still wanting a 7/32" Allen head socket or// a Full set let me know. I'll bring em up.

seriously what's wrong with your motor ? is it leaking coolant ? or is colling system pressurising ?? or are you taking the ****s ..

Well come to think of it mostly the third one

There is nothing wrong with the 3.5 in my 89 RRC, This is the problem.... I cant kill the bloody thing to make way for the blown 3.9. That 3.9 in the 90 model Rangie we got from Rutherglen has very low Kms and I suspect never been touched. So I think we should change the head gaskets as a precaution since the manifold has to come off for the blower install. Will replace the cam and lifters as well.

Rebuilding a rover V8 Part2

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Well come to think of it mostly the third one

There is nothing wrong with the 3.5 in my 89 RRC, This is the problem.... I cant kill the bloody thing to make way for the blown 3.9. That 3.9 in the 90 model Rangie we got from Rutherglen has very low Kms and I suspect never been touched. So I think we should change the head gaskets as a precaution since the manifold has to come off for the blower install. Will replace the cam and lifters as well.

Rebuilding a rover V8 Part2

If the 3.9 has low kays why not Just Bung in the Blower and get a tune done & drive it for a while , until the HG blows , then you can pull the heads off , and do the Cam and Lifters then and service the heads , IMO the standard CAM is a good choice.

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

If the 3.9 has low kays why not Just Bung in the Blower and get a tune done & drive it for a while , until the HG blows , then you can pull the heads off , and do the Cam and Lifters then and service the heads , IMO the standard CAM is a good choice.

With the reputation the 3.9s have at popping head gaskets around this site I think I should change them anyway as would be an embarrassment if it happened wile touring. I'll go a torque cam as I don't need it to rev. I want heaps of grunt in the mid range so its nice and free to drive. Although the blower will still force it to rev I seem to think.

May be bung the blower on the old 3.5 and see how long it last
I'm seriously thinking about it if the 14cux and uni chip is tunable enough. The blower pulley size may need to be changed will be the worst part.

Have to say... I don't know what to do engine wise I just seems a waste to pluck out a perfectly strong but underpowered 3.5 at this stage.