Thread: TD5 Engine seize

Originally Posted by Graeme

They should have used a larger diameter bolt instead of a miserable little 6mm one on such an important part to give it a better chance of staying tight.

Bigger bolts aren't better at staying tight and many grades of loctite lose strength about 100C.
A locking tab like the wheel bearing nuts would be the best solution.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Bigger bolts aren't better at staying tight and many grades of loctite lose strength about 100C.
A locking tab like the wheel bearing nuts would be the best solution.

Lots-a-landies is on the money, LH thread will cure it imediately. They do it with the wheel nuts on the LH side of the Dyna and Coaster buses, and the Viscous fan on the Tdi and early V8.
Even the Honda engines like our 1992 Accord, they rotate anticlockwise and the crankbolt is a LH thread. Good simple engineering design that.
JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Lots-a-landies is on the money, LH thread will cure it imediately. They do it with the wheel nuts on the LH side of the Dyna and Coaster buses, and the Viscous fan on the Tdi and early V8.
Even the Honda engines like our 1992 Accord, they rotate anticlockwise and the crankbolt is a LH thread. Good simple engineering design that.
JC

Not questioning that they do it, but why would you bother for a wheel nut? The rim doesn't apply any torque to the nut like a viscous fan does.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Not questioning that they do it, but why would you bother for a wheel nut? The rim doesn't apply any torque to the nut like a viscous fan does.

Yeah it always struck me as strange, but the only wheel nuts that have EVER come loose (Twice now) on my RR have been the LH REAR!!!

JC

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Not questioning that they do it, but why would you bother for a wheel nut? The rim doesn't apply any torque to the nut like a viscous fan does.

They do when they get loose.
If you've ever seen a vehicle lose a wheel because the nuts were loose, it's always the left side.
On the right you can lose individual nuts, but never enough to loose the whole wheel.

Once saw a truck that'd lost both left hand dual wheels. Spaced about 100m apart on the road.

If the nuts stay tight enough that the wheel can't move on the hub, then it doesn't matter which way the threads turn.

Originally Posted by Dougal

They do when they get loose.
If you've ever seen a vehicle lose a wheel because the nuts were loose, it's always the left side.
On the right you can lose individual nuts, but never enough to loose the whole wheel.

Once saw a truck that'd lost both left hand dual wheels. Spaced about 100m apart on the road.

If the nuts stay tight enough that the wheel can't move on the hub, then it doesn't matter which way the threads turn.

Ahhh ok, the movement on the hub when they all come loose. Thats interesting, thanks for that!

Originally Posted by Dougal

They do when they get loose.
If you've ever seen a vehicle lose a wheel because the nuts were loose, it's always the left side.
On the right you can lose individual nuts, but never enough to loose the whole wheel.

Once saw a truck that'd lost both left hand dual wheels. Spaced about 100m apart on the road.

If the nuts stay tight enough that the wheel can't move on the hub, then it doesn't matter which way the threads turn.

Thats true, I reckon when they start to work loose, they loosen up a whole lot quicker on the left side than the right.
My hub surfaces were always covered in mud and loose scale etc, since cleaning them thoroughly it hasn't reoccurred.

JC

Originally Posted by p38arover

Dave was telling me the car has been serviced by a reputable LR workshop.

The thing is there was no official tech bulletin or recall. It was not done voluntarily by most LR dealers and if it was suggested had an additional cost. There were even some dealers that did not know about it initially.
Though by now Daves service department should have been more than aware of it and made him aware.
It is a shame because all the info is right here.