Thread: Replacement cylinder head

that would be great I really want the a/c fixed I need air cond

Originally Posted by ladas

Can't say much about the engine, but with the air con, if they say "they think it's the compressor" then they haven't a clue.

Any air con technician would be able to say one way or another if a compressor is faulty or not simply by looking at the gauges - and some touching of the pipes to assess temperatures at various point.

For the air con go to a specialist, I can recommend one or two in Perth if you want. Just PM me and I will send you their details

I paid $7000

Originally Posted by GuyG

So has anyone actually had the job completed for the 7K or is this just an estimate of what it would cost - not doing it yourself but drive in drive out?

I realize now I paid more than I should have but it seems to be better. It isn't sitting on half at startup anymore so when I took it back he must have fixed something else. I haven't driven it much yet as I have no a/c I don't really want to drive it on these 30+ days.
Thanks for all the advice in future I will always ask BEFORE I get major work done.
I know nothing about cars other than they cost a lot of $$$ but it is good to know I can always ask people you know and they will help me out.
How much should rodding cost same guy said originally $110 to do my hilux and now says it will cost $350 because it is diesel? It doesn't overheat but considering how much the Discovery cost I don't want to end up with the same problem in the

Originally Posted by Disco2tow

I paid $7000

diesel or petrol makes no difference. a radiator is a radiator as far as that goes.

what does make a difference is the construction of the radiator...

is it a plastic tanked affair?
is it ally?
is it copper?
soldered or tab sealed?
with or without inbuilt oil coolers?


the last radiator I got rodded cost me $90 but it was a simple soldered tank affair and I pulled it out and hand delivered it.

This why I get ripped off so easily I have no idea what it is ? Is there a way I can work what it is?
I don't think it has oil coolers it has a plastic guard over the top but I think it might be ally.
$90 sound much more like what it should be. I wouldn't think removing it would be that much more. I only paid $120 for a new belt at Toyota (parts & labor) and they had to remove the same stuff they have to remove to do rodding. So I don't get why I'm being quoted $350?

I'm wondering if I should do it at all as it doesn't overheat? Even at high speed hot temps and with the a/c on full. Or is it something I should do?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

diesel or petrol makes no difference. a radiator is a radiator as far as that goes.

what does make a difference is the construction of the radiator...

is it a plastic tanked affair?
is it ally?
is it copper?
soldered or tab sealed?
with or without inbuilt oil coolers?


the last radiator I got rodded cost me $90 but it was a simple soldered tank affair and I pulled it out and hand delivered it.

Just for comparison, I replaced the two head gaskets (similar labour costs to replacing heads) in May 2007. While the heads were off, we also replaced the other assorted gaskets, plugs, leads, coil packs, ground the heads, and serviced the injectors. The whole bill, including parts, came to $3,314.85. About $1,200 of that was for the injector service, plugs, leads and coil packs. So about $2,100 for the head gaskets, cleaning etc and labour which would relate directly to your job. I am sorry but I have no idea what heads themselves should cost. If you know that, you could judge fairly easily if you were overcharged or not.

Sadly I dropped two liners 18 months later, and had to replace the engine. I got a brand new 4.6 RR HSE engine for a bit over $6,000, but the total bill was around $13,000 by the time it was installed with new hoses, radiator thoroughly inspected and tested (as a result of pressurisation of the cooling system), and new plugs again - (different plug in the 4.6). Also had the injectors redone following the coolant in the combustion chambers.

My advice on the LR temp guage is to disregard it and buy a Scan Gauge 2. It costs $180 and you simply plug it into the OBDII port. It gives a trip computer and separate displays of any four inputs from the OBDII port. If you set one display to coolant temperature, it will tell you the truth degree by degree. The LR gauge on the other hand, slowly rises from cold until about 60 degrees when it centres, and then stays there to well over 100 degrees. Not a lot of use when the engine is working hard.

Good luck.

Cheers,

Terry

A complete cooling service including rodding costs $250 locally,Just a flush and service $110 or $700 for a recore and service.The recore was on my disco and it was a three row core.All prices were drive in drive out and I would get it done,you have spent far to much money to have it all come undone through overheating,the original problem I think. Pat