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They are the problem,trust me.Don't overtighten them,go half,swinging the hub front to back as you do it and then the full amount,don't go over,if they start to bind as you torque up the bolts stop and add shim.Take your time and set them as close to max amount as you can,as they bed in they loose tension so close to the top mark is better.It isn't as hard as you think. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by B92 8NW
i have a 1998 d1 i bought with 205/80/16 tyres steered great changed tyre to 225/75/16 steering was shocking, nervous and wandering changed back to the 205/80/16 steered great swapped the tyre several times same result.the 225/75/16 are a A/T light truck tyre and they weight more then the 205/80/16 so i think weight has something to do with it
I didn't have the problem when I bought the car with 205/80 Goodyear HTs on it. It developed when I put my 225/75 ATs on.Quote:
Originally Posted by truckie
But I can't understand how that would cause it. Strange though
Mine was a bit waffly when I bought it. New Springs made a big difference. Lovely now. (Standard height)
Make sure everything is bolted down, I had a few loose bolts on the radius arms and the steering box that made the steering interesting over 100.
Being live axle they do wander on off camber roads but the steering should still feel positive.
Hi folks :)
Just done a 1600k round trip to Esperance from Perth
The RRC drove real great and performed without missing a beat ... However .. the steering on the highway & outback roads can be a bit of a challenge in inexperienced hands on certain styles of tarmac roads ;)
While it does steer & drive comfortable on a straight track ... it can have a "rear end flick" effect on corners ... in some areas of certain styles of roads ...Especially where heavy haulage trucks have left their deep grooves in the road ... the car can try to climb to the top of these cambers ..... of the tracking in the road ...
In one instance ... the front end flicked & twisted suddenly, on a bend, as it tried to climb the camber of the Heavy haulage grooves in the road ... It threw the car to the center of the road by 2 feet in "an instant" ... before I caught it ... and corrected the steering to drive straight again // Very dangerous // Happened only once throughout the whole trip & scared the "begeevers" out of me :eek:
Hence ... I believe that maybe "More camber" for the front end maybe required
This link may be the go in identifying & fixing the problem
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ls-how-do.html
Mike
:)
What about the Tie Rod Ends, did you replace them, did you do the Swivel pre-load yourself or did a mechanic do it (or not), you replaced shocks, are they a quality shock? Regards Frank.Quote:
Originally Posted by B92 8NW
P.S. have you checked the rear suspension bushes and top ball joint, sloppy rear suspension can cause your problem as well.
I'd be checking the wheel alignment first, it only has to be out a litle bit for it to feel horendous.
I am new to the forum so not sure what I have to offer, but I had a similar problem when I fitted 245/70-16 Khumo tyres (early D1 with V8). The only way I was able to stop the wandering was to inflate the tyres to 40-45 PSI - solved the problem.
I am currently on my 2nd D1 with 300Tdi and running BFGs 245/70-16s - I generally run these @ the higher pressure on the bitumen. I've had no problems at all with wandering in 300,000Ks on all sorts of roads in my current D1 (Gibb River, Strezlecki, Cape York and a lot of black stuff in between, just to give you an idea of some of the variations of roads).
Seeing as how you have tried all the expensive stuff - try something simple and play with the tyre pressures.
Poor steering on any of the rovers after series can be caused by a few things. In order of easyness to check:
- wheel bearings
- track rod ends
- Steering box adjustment (the hex thread on front of chassis) - these wear and need adjustment, most that I have owned have never been adjusted. This alters free play between steering wheel and action.
- panhard rod bushes
- swivel pins preload (either railko or taper bearing)
- steering damper
- radius arm bushes
- broken springs.. ?
If lifted the camber is changed, which will affect self centre, but should still mean it drives straight.
I don't think anyone mentioned the steering box adjustment, so for completeness the method of setting is:
- raise front wheels both sides.
- engine off, check free play by moving steering wheel and seeing how much before the roadwheel moves (you need to be sure panhard and TREs are OK because of the slack they may introduce). Looking for no more than an inch of motion before wheels go (my D2 has about 2" but i can't bothered yet :) )
- slacken the locknut on the box while holding the hex key in place (I *think* it was a 15mm spanner and 8mm hex but I can't be certain)
- tighten hex thread into box a bit and check free play, repeat until you are happy with free play at wheel.
- retighten lock nut
- take wheel through a couple of full lock to locks and if any tight areas you need to back off the adjustment.
Be careful about bleed nuts and possibly when you have done the locknut off, the powersteering fluid makes a pretty fountain when you turn if either of those are loose I recall. :)