dead TD5

FWIW,

before you pull it down, turn the ignition on with the rocker cover off and pay a lot of attention to the top of the injectors. If the fuel pump cuts out cycle the ignition switch.

If your oil had gone as thin as your describing it, was stupid hot, and wasnt leaving a trace on the stick I have a theory that the problem may not have started at the cooling system. When you got the thing cool enough to be able to dip the oil and get a result, what was the oil level like?

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Originally Posted by weeds

Psimpson7 did a good write up on changing a head gasket, search or PM him

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http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/6...placement.html

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

FWIW,

before you pull it down, turn the ignition on with the rocker cover off and pay a lot of attention to the top of the injectors. If the fuel pump cuts out cycle the ignition switch.

If your oil had gone as thin as your describing it, was stupid hot, and wasnt leaving a trace on the stick I have a theory that the problem may not have started at the cooling system. When you got the thing cool enough to be able to dip the oil and get a result, what was the oil level like?

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Once it cooled a bit approx normal oil level appeared back on the dipstick.

I guess I will have other engine damage resulting from this.

Thats a top post from Psimpson7, a big help for whats ahead of me.

Does any one know the locking pin diameter for the camshaft gear and flywheel? (Landrover part LRT-12-058 and LRT-12-158 respectively)

Thanks

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Originally Posted by Graz

The Toad has thrown a real sad. Travelling up the Armidale hill (Perth) it started to lose power, developed a tappet noise, got to the servo up the top and it stalled and started blowing steam and smelling expensive.

Initially I thought it had blown the engine oil over board for some reason as nothing seemed to show on the dipstick, turned out the the oil was so hot and thin that the level was not apparent.

So I guess it is coolant loss, but from where? ( Part of the reason why I didn't go on tyhe Pemberton trip was I hadn't time to fit the low coolant sensor kit:(.)

1) failed hose (nothing apparent so far)
2) Failed viscous fan unit ( didn't notice it kicking in when it was getting hot.
3) failed head gasket ( possible has done 192,000 ks)
4) other reason ?????

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Stuck thermostat?

Jon

Maybe everyone that reads this thread should book their vehicle in to get the cooling system serviced.It's only $250 plus parts. Pat

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Originally Posted by D3Jon

Stuck thermostat?

Jon

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Fitted a new one just three months ago

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Maybe everyone that reads this thread should book their vehicle in to get the cooling system serviced.It's only $250 plus parts. Pat

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parts will cost you better than $500 to do everything not including the coolers on the engine and the radiator.


yeah graz theirs going to be damage but I dont want to scare you but bare minimum will include the head gasket. Turn the engine over by hand with the cap off of the expansion tank then crank it on the starter for a few seconds and that will give you an indication of how bad the head gasket is.

if you cant or once you have remove the 4 glow plugs and try again, see what comes out.

Naturally if it sounds tortured when you bar it over by hand dont try it on the starter and once youve spun it over without the glow plugs in skip yourself a few steps in the manual and get the crank and cam in position by hand using a bolt shank that fits the timing hole in the cam mounts. (read the Rave first on head removal and that'll make more sense)

It looks like I have indication of water ingress in #2 cylinder and rust marks on the block on the L.H.S. of 1, 2 & 3 cylinders.

One of the plastic dowels had shattered and the oother had a large step.

Its a bit hard to tell as the head is not cleaned up and I only have a twelve inch steel rule but I can measure approx 4 thou " gap in the area were the water may have made its way in.

What this will ultimately mean, I don't know.

Is there a recognised TD5 head reconditioning shop in Perth who has the experiece to know if the head is scrap or not.
Thanks

On a side note, the head bolt torques were all over the place with the rear most almost no torque.

the loss of torque on the head bolts is an effect of overheating an engine with torque to yield bolts so dont be too concerned about that (although its worth keeping note of which ones were looser so that when you get the shape of the head face worked out you can compare).

you might have better luck finding a problem with the head by strong lights and a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe and giving the suspected problem area a MkII eyeballing.