You'd save more money by fitting LPG. I used to drive 120km per day to/from work. I'd never consider a conversion to part-time 4WD.
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This is true, but in the early fulltime 80 series, if you convert it to part time, you need to run the CDL constantly also otherwise you get no drive anywhere. Its only in the later viscous transfers where you could disconnect the front and still get drive to the rear.
But as you said, eitherway it will still make everything spin up front as per usual.
Quite honestly, you will gain nothing by converting to part time plus from what I have heard, the handling changes somewhat also.
The improvement will be more theory than practice - everything is still turning. Then there will be the cost and change in handling and possibility of rear diff failure. I would be very surprised if the improvement in economy was as much as 1%. (I doubt if it makes much difference in the Landcruiser either!)
John
I have a Q – why do all the most fuel efficient 4*4 have full time 4wd (merc, bmw vw…) if the front drive train was such a problem why don’t the EU manufactures scrap it? Mmm
Take the Jeep GC Vs Merc ML in the 2.7 model. Jeep is part time, Merc is full time. Same engine and 5 speed transmission – different tranfercase and diffs. Very close in the weight (10kg diff) but the merc records better fuel figures (just - but better)… It is more aero dynamic BUT I’ve read claims of up to 15 and even 20% fuel improvement by stopping the front diff with these kits – come on!
For the euro vehicles - these conversions are just good marketing with baseless claims like electronic rust… :lol2:
"my (new) car has had Electronic Rust Protection since new and it has no rust" – obviously nothing to do with the fact it is covered with PAINT… if that system works so well they should fit it to the harbour bridge – there’s a cracker of a saving. Oh wait – a good friend of mine who is an Industrial Chemist ran the equations several years ago and is of the professional opinion that electricity cannot stop rust. Galvanic corrosion yes but not rust. Not to mention the 1.5ah of battery drain….
Oh and don’t start me on the outboard "hydrofoil". A highly respected marine technician recently wrote that when he sees one of these fitted it tells him that either the boat is underpowered, has the wrong prop or is sick/damaged – and the advertising tells the owner that it can all be fixed with $100. If only owners did some testing before and after – yes it may lift faster but top speed is down fuel usage is up and they bite in sharp turns – that’s why the outboard doesn’t’ come from the factory like that…
Good marketing will sell anything – how much is a Hyclone? Those tablets that go in the tank? :Rolling:
I’ll just put that soap box away now…
Why don't you drop out the front tail-shaft (2wd) and maybe the front shafts(FWH) to convert your car to two wheel drive, test it for a week or month and see if you do save any fuel?
This way, yes you do have a bit of labour involved however, you will see if any fuel saving is worth the cost of the conversion.
Besides who wants to get out and lock in the hubs to go 4wheeling? I'll leave that for the Jap cars.
a mate of mine looked in this with his 100 series, it wasn't worth the $$$
I drove my defender in two wheel drive for 3 weeks when I have it dynoed,save fuel,don't think so.Pump your tyres up,tune the engine,keep at 100 that will save fuel. Pat