Thread: after market manul front hubs

gotta love gas at 36cpl

I remember a longish thread on the issue 2-3 years ago. Eventually someone with a Pajero chipped in to say that 2wd, all other things being equal, was slightly more efficient than constant 4wd (this being one of the few vehicles where you could do a direct comparison).

From memory the big issue in all LRs is ensuring lubrication to the front axle - freewheeling hubs are a potential risk unless locked in from time to time. Santana use a 2wd/4wd version of the LT230 transfer case, so parts are available for the conversion.

The key problem, as mentioned, is that LR went with the full-time 4wd in large part because the torque of the V8 was more than their standard diffs could handle. The trouble and cost in upgrading the components would offset any fuel savings.

If you like the V8 sound, and want better economy for on-road driving, how about a Rover sedan from the 70's or 80's? Or an MG V8? or any number of Brit kit cars of the last 40 years? or even a P76 V8? It's hard to get economy out of a 2 ton box powered by a pushrod V8.

Originally Posted by harlie

"my (new) car has had Electronic Rust Protection since new and it has no rust" – obviously nothing to do with the fact it is covered with PAINT…

Being a panel beater i was surprised to see that one of these little products seemed to be actually working, on a Hyundai excel of all models which are renowned for rust (surface rust) between the guard and the top of the skirt. but this one was like new, and it was about 8 years old, and judging by the outside condition of the car she wasn't a pride and joy model anymore

Originally Posted by dirtdawg

if your already on gas then it should'nt be that bad i do about 80-90ks a day as my round trip and it costs me $20 to fill my gas tank and i get about 200-250kms from it (60ltrs)

i am filling my tank with a bit under 40 liters every 2 days, (about 17 bucks worth) i am pretty happy with the cost i get about 150 km from that but the small tank is ****ing me off always being at the servo and don't see know harm in getting to work cheaper

Originally Posted by dirtdawg

gotta love gas at 36cpl

lucky you i am now paying 59.9 as of today yesterday it was 49.9

$1k+ will buy a LOT of gas, so you wont be getting anywhere cheaper for about 10 years!!!

Also, wheel alignment will need to be changed to go 2wd (seriously) and it'll understeer like crazy.

Plus, from absolute experience by myself and other mates...

I wouldnt buy anything from that bunch.... Not just their service, but their products....

Guys, you've just saved me a lot of money!. Everyone here tells me to convert my S2a 2.25D 109 to free wheel hubs; better economy, more power etc., even if all of the people in the know say that the fuel savings are not worth the cost of the conversion. I thing you've settled the argument once and for all.

Another question to ponder: what if someone engages one hub on the front without you knowing it?

Originally Posted by gunsports

Another question to ponder: what if someone engages one hub on the front without you knowing it?

Absolutely nothing. We had a Surf with ADD (Automatic Disconnecting Differential). It uses solid drive flanges, same as a series rover without free wheel hubs. In 2WD mode a vacuum servo in the front diff housing slides a sleeve along the long half shaft to disengage the shaft and stop the diff rotating, the gears inside the diff carrier just spin and drive the other half shaft in the opposite direction. In 4WD the sleeve locks the half shaft together and the drive goes through as normal. To put it simply, our Surf did 160,000km with one hub locked and the other unlocked with absolutely no problems.
In my Series 1, if it hasn't been used in 4WD for a while (very rare) I will lock one hub to spin the front shafts to lube the swivel bearings etc. My front prop shaft is worn and out of balance above 30MPH, after all, it is 55 years old