Thread: 2.25 Petrol Servicing - A Dummies Guide...

Originally Posted by Shonky

I want to give Ambrose a good service before the 2 day trek down to Corowa, but I want to be sure I have all my bases covered.

If I may, I will go over what I think I need to do and how I would do it, and those of you who know better can explain what I don't know, expand on what I do know and expend what I shouldn't know.

2 other brief questions:
Is there any particular start point with servicing?!
Any recommendations on brands and suppliers of consumables?


Okay, here goes...

ENGINE:

1. Engine Oil and Filter change.
- run engine until warm
- Remove sump plug and drain oil
- remove oil filter
- replace sump plug
- fit new filter (type? brand? where from?) readily available from most filter specialists and probably Repco etc. or Landrover specialists (not dealers) Brand immaterial.
- fill engine (through which cap?) with engine oil (type? brand?) Fill through cap on side pipe. 20W-50 or 20W-60
-

2. Cooling system flush.
- remove bottom hose - remove or open plug or tap in block behind exhaust manifold, and one in the bottom of the radiator.
- drain coolant/water
- remove top hose at radiator end
- with a hose, flush water through top hose through water pump etc (is there any right direction to do this?) No
- flush radiator
- replace hoses if required (they are)
- refill with water? or coolant? (which one and if coolant, what type?) Originally distilled or rainwater is specified, antifreeze if necessary, but I would use green coolant.

3. check valve / tappet clearances (I may be blind, but I couldn't find it in the service book...) .010" hot or cold
- remover rocker cover
- use appropriate size (which is?) feeler guage to check clearances between the thingos
- adjust if necessary by tightening or loosening the nuts on the other side to the thingos. See the workshop manual for details on how to do this. If you don't have this, make sure you are checking the clearance when the valves are closed - a crankhandle is very handy.
- ?

4. Air cleaner clean and overhaul
- remove air cleaner
- dismantle and drain oil
- clean element with fresh fuel
- refill with motor oil to required level (any specific oil?) No, but use what you used in the engine.
- Remove and clean in petrol or kerosene and reoil the breather filters.

5. Check timing (this is in the manual somewhere, but just checking)
- with a timing light?
I use static timing setting with a trouble light or other low voltage light. Timing should be 6deg BTDC for unleaded or advance until you start to get knocking under load.
- align mark with top dead centre? +/- ?
- anything else?

6. replace plugs and leads
- plugs easy
- leads easy, but what type? With low compression, not very critical - I have Bosch leads
- is it worth replacing the coil? No unless suspect

7. check compression
- do I need to? How? what do I do about it if it is off? (big job to rectify right?) No unless suspect

8. Distributor
- worth replacing points? rotor? anything else? Check and adjust points (before setting timing) replace if burnt. Nothing else should need replacement. Remove rotor button and put in one drop of engine oil. Do not get oil near points - do not use the oily feeler gauges you used for the tappets.

9. Fuel system
- disconnect either end and blow out with compressed air
- clean sediment bowl
- check for leaks
- check Carby (see above)


OTHER:

1. Gearbox Oil change
- warm up box
- drain oil
- refil
* any tricks with getting the oil from bottle to box? What about T/Case?

I use a twenty litre drum with a pump! you will find an oil syringe handy. Transfer case needs at least checking. Gearbox and transfer drain and refill are listed at 15000km, check at 5000.

2. Diff and Swivel oil change
- drive to warm up
- drain oil
- refill (what oil, and how do I get it in without it going everywhere?!) EP 90, changes and checks etc same as gearbox

3. brakes
- just top up fluid? Do I need to bleed or flush? check. In a wet or dusty climate, bleed and replace annually.
- pads are good, although the front left is dragging a tiny bit. Do I just play with the adjusting bolt on the backing plate until it stops? I could just leave it... Adjust as per book. (tighten and then back off one notch). If it is dragging it is either adjusted too tight or has oil on it. If any doubt remove the drum and have a look. Adjust handbrake

4. Universals
- clean off excess crud
- grease 'em up (just fill them or should grease force out the edges? Yes. Also check tightness of the securing bolts on the flanges


Is there anything else I should do?

Missing from your list :-

Adjust fan belt
Lubricate dynamo (not necessary for alternator)
Drain flywheel housing if wading plug fitted.
Oil throttle linkage
Adjust idling
Rotate tyres
Check pressures and tread condition
Check all body bolts
Check U-bolts and shackle pins for tightness
Check all lights and headlight aiming
Check level of oil in steering box
Check rubber boots on all tie rod ends for damage, replace as necessary
Check top and bottom relay arms for signs of looseness.
Lubricate all locks and door hinges

That is all I can think of, hope it helps.

John

Thanks for that John! Legend!


I forgot about the carby - is there anything I need to check or adjust here?

Just 2 things to add to John's excellent list,
1. Relace condensor in dissy when and everytime you change the points.
2. In the "Sticky" section of Series III forum is a download of the Manual which will have all the Tech info you will need.
Regards Frank

Originally Posted by Shonky

Thanks for that John! Legend!


I forgot about the carby - is there anything I need to check or adjust here?

Depends which carby you have. if it is a Solex, there is a strainer in the input union which should be cleaned. A lot of Zeniths have had an inline filter added just before the carbie, and this should be replaced every three or four services, or at the very least examined for sediment. But note that I had one of these start to shed little bits of paper which blocked jets - but it was at least ten years old. Other than this there is no regular servicing of the carburetter except to check for leaks and for the bolts holding it to the manifold to be tight, and nothing loose on the linkages. For that matter, checking all the bolts on the manifolds is probably worthwhile.

John

John

Thanks John and Frank.

Just to keep you on your toes, I have neither a Zenith nor a Solex.

Ambrose wears a Webber which was installed in 2002 and has gone maybe 2000miles at most. It has an inline filter just before that was installed at the same time.

I would remove the rad and have it rodded and change thermostat and if there is any movement at all in the pump I would fit a new one and keep the old one as a spare.I would also replace the thermo housing bolts,tap the holes and anti-sieze the new ones.I always found on landy drum brakes that I set them so I could just hear them rub on the front and the back one's a click back from touching worked well.Also check that the master cylinder pin has a bit of play or the brakes will bind,just back the nuts back a little either side. Pat

How do you find the webber?.Is it the 32mm? if it is you are loosing a lot of power and you need all you can get. Pat

Wiper Blades or should I say smearing rubber



Good thread Shonky - thanks all for replies - I am saving this thread.