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Thread: FINALLY FOUND IT!!

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up FINALLY FOUND IT!!

    Was going thru "My Documents" and found a text file of a post I made on another site (prior to stmbling onto AULRO...!) that has since disappeared from the intermerwebnetthingy.

    It relates to the installation notes on converting to a full twin thermofan setup on my RRC, but it may also apply to D1&2's and maybe even the odd Deefa.
    So without further adue, here is the post!

    INSTALLATION DETAILS ARE LISTED BELOW. NO RESPONSIBILITY TAKEN AS COMMON SENSE SHOULD PREVAIL.
    Some owners may not be aware, but all the wiring to do a twin thermo conversion to the Classic is already installed for models with A/C.
    I have a '93 model, so all reference is to this year. Some earlier models may want to check.
    Models with A/C will fave a fan switch mounted on the water outlet. this is connected directly to the condenser fans and operates when coolant temperature is excessively high. The brilliant thing with all of this is that the fans will operate on the temp switch and automatically turn on with the A/C!
    On the factory switch, the trigger temp is 100degC.
    Echlin have a range of fan switches of varying temps that will do the job. I use an FS150 and FS245 depending on time of year (Australia, HOT summers, mild winters). Temp ranges for these are on 90/off 80 and on 95/off 90. Check the catalogue at your local parts store.
    To check that your fans and wiring are good, turn ignition to ON, pull off the two connectors and short the two wires together. Both of the fans should start.
    When choosing fans, DON'T SKIMP ON A GOOD SPEC FAN *MOST IMPORTANT*. My personal preference was for PACET from the UK (Pacet Home Page). They have specific Landrover applications, but I could not find anyone in Australia that kept them. If you have access to them, BEST CHOICE as I have used these when in the UK. For my application I selected SPAL.
    Look for a 12" 'puller' fan with bare minimum 2000m3h FREE AIRFLOW. you will need two of. A fan stating a flow rate through a core thickness is preferred. a thickness of about 40mm with flow @ 2000m3h + is a good fan.
    TO FIT.
    Remove viscous and fan shroud, thread for viscous is LH. IF your pulley slips, jam a towel under the belt, this should stop it. You will need to make a mounting shroud for the fans as directly mounting to rad cores is inefficient. Bakelite or 4mm thick polypropylene are good choices. Use original shroud for dimensions. Position fans on shroud, mark and cut holes and bolt down fans (bolt tails to engine). On the rad side of the shroud, put a divider that will almost touch the cores, creating two separate 'sections'. This will split the draw between the fans providing full even core draw and give rigidity to the shroud. If you use polypropylene, you will need to get it welded at a plastic shop.
    Drop shroud into rad locating lugs. 4mm will be a tight fit and will need to be pushed down hard. Either use original screws and screw holes or VERY CAREFULLY drill new holes, 4 or 5 evenly spaced along the top.
    Unscrew the rad mounts and push rad back towards engine for access to cables.
    Cut the wiring to the A/C condenser fans about 2-3 inches back from the motors, this will allow you to use the original connector plugs for the new fans. Remove the original condenser fans from the front as they are rubbish anyway.

    There are two bulkhead clips holding the cables just behind the radiator so don't pull on them. Release the clips and push them thru to the front until they drop out. Draw the wiring through back to the harness they come from. I also cut the the wiring at the harness and turn the plugs around so they are mounted visibly with rad in place for easy access if needed.
    Do a 'dry' connect making sure you don't short the connections against anything, check polarity and fan rotation by shorting out fan switch plugs, correct if needed.
    Solder and heatshrink ALL connections, do not leave dry and taped. These are important connections and must be sealed and secure.
    put everything back and its done.

    I had mine made and installed inside 3 hours, including making the shroud.

    Cheers

    Andrew

  2. #2
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    Nice work.

    I am thinking about using Falcon fans on mine, either EF - EL or AU ones, whichever fit better.

    Good tip about the sensor to trigger them.

  3. #3
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Hi All,

    There is a stack of info on this topic here:

    Outer Limits 4x4 Board :: View topic - Thermo fan info

    including a photo of an AU shroud and fans. There is even a link to an article that talks of the fuel consumption and engine wear benefits of thermo fans.

    I have had fake EL fans on my POS for 3 years now and they have no probs keeping a 350 cool with a standard 3.5 radiator. Way better than the old engine fan, especially when crawling along on a hot day.

    cheers, DL

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    Remove the original condenser fans from the front as they are rubbish anyway.
    Problem is these condenser fans are not just there to help cooling the engine,
    they are there to cool the condenser when the aircon is going flat out in summer, the cooler the condenser, the cooler the cold air,
    If the gas in the condenser gets to hot, preasure will build in the aircon system and trip the high preassure switch in & out,
    so you will end up with the aircon cutting in & out

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    Problem is these condenser fans are not just there to help cooling the engine,
    they are there to cool the condenser when the aircon is going flat out in summer, the cooler the condenser, the cooler the cold air,
    If the gas in the condenser gets to hot, preasure will build in the aircon system and trip the high preassure switch in & out,
    so you will end up with the aircon cutting in & out
    Think your missing the point....
    The fans are still connected to same wiring and operate in exactly the same manner. Turn the A/C on and the fans still operate as per the usual mode.


    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

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    no, haven't missed the point,

    i just think that having twin fans on the radiator side only won't be enough to keep the condenser cool on the front, when the aircon is flat out in summer thats all,
    be ok on the hwy with airflow, but in built up areas?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    no, haven't missed the point,

    i just think that having twin fans on the radiator side only won't be enough to keep the condenser cool on the front, when the aircon is flat out in summer thats all,
    be ok on the hwy with airflow, but in built up areas?
    It's no different to any current car with thermofans.
    Auxiliary fans installed infront of the radiator are only used where standard viscous engine fans are installed for radiator cooling for the express reason of low speed cooling for the A/C, ie when idling in traffic, due to the lack off sufficient airflow from the engine fan.

    Look under the bonnet of any vehicle with thermo main fans and you wont find a front mounted auxiliary fan.

    It's standard practice now for OEM and has been for some time.

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  8. #8
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    It's no different to any current car with thermofans.
    Auxiliary fans installed infront of the radiator are only used where standard viscous engine fans are installed for radiator cooling for the express reason of low speed cooling for the A/C, ie when idling in traffic, due to the lack off sufficient airflow from the engine fan.
    this is very true, however todays radiators are very thin & lightweight, todays radiator with a condenser in front of it would be lucky to be the thickness of a raditor alone on the RRC & early Disco.

    The vn-vp , they fitted the thermo to the radiator only, aircon great untill you got to the mid 30's and in traffic, aircon compressor cuting in & out because the condenser couldn't cool. put a thermo on the condenser & perfect
    Your idea is very good, i just wouldn't tear of the condenser fans thats all.

  9. #9
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    Logically speaking twin TE fans behind the radiator replacing both the original TE fans and the TC fan on the engine (as long as they have the same volumetric flow or greater) is actually better for cooling of the AC condenser.

    This is because you longer have the bulk of the TE fans in front of the condenser thus allowing unrestricted airflow through the unit and also then though the radiator.

    As long as the TE fans are still activated by the AC operation this setup will work better for the AC on hot days and low vehicle speeds. At higher vehicle speeds the fans aren't capable of the airflow produced by the vehicle propelling itself along anyway.

    Just my 2c worth folks.

    Cheers,
    Iain

  10. #10
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverv8 View Post
    The vn-vp , they fitted the thermo to the radiator only, aircon great untill you got to the mid 30's and in traffic, aircon compressor cuting in & out because the condenser couldn't cool. put a thermo on the condenser & perfect

    Geez - wish I known this 10 years ago! Drove the VN around for many years putting up with the AC being **** after it got too hot...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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