A fair bit depending on who you know, what you pay for the engine, your existing gearbox setup and how much work your willing to do yourself.
I'd stay with the same setup KISS depending on how bad the bottom end of your engine is (since you have to pull it out to replace it anyway, strip it and send it off for a quote on line boring of the block, crank matching and decking) then work out whats going to be more economical for you
option 3 should work out the cheapest providing your pistons rods and block are ok. I generally dont like taking second hand items for building things out of BUT if its second hand as in reconditioned and it comes with a warranty then Id be considering a second hand bearing in mind that at 20 thou oversize the block only has one more rebuild left in it by the books.
IF you want the penultimate in unkillable engines thats the way to go. its a wet lined engine so so long as you dont bend the crank so badly that it twists a crank main journal or crack the block you can rebuild it forever. Out of the perentie with some help with manourveing and the right jigs you can pull one, strip it to component pieces, rebuild it to new spec and install it in something like 20 hours.
you say this like there is some inherent problems with the Isuzu crank. Is there? be good to know. I haven't heard of any failures...
the series donk makes more heat per hp as its significantly less efficient than a TDI while Ive never sat down and mathed it out or done any significant comparisons to have a WAG Id say that the series will push out something like 10-15% more heat while doing the same amount of work. (which is about how much more fuel effecient the tdi is per HP over the series)
ok i understand where you are comming from. But you say per hp, how much hp does the series produce? how much does the tdi produce? im talking about total heat output, not per hp. Remmeber according to you they are the same block... so lets look at heat comming from each engine. i think the argument, that i have said time and time again is output per cubic capacity...
Same basic body shape so about the same amount of room the front end is a bit more open to airflow in a deefer than a series but you have more junk in the bay of a deefer than the series.
why is the Defender more open to air flow than a series? Go open a bonnet on a defender and then a series, if you cant see a big difference in "air" around the 2, you need your eyes checked...
The airflow through a deefer is still better than the series due to the type and construction of the fan thats used and the better presentation of the front of the radiator to the forced airflow from driving (which is also improved do the the fact that a series diesel is bloody lucky to hit and maintain 85 kph and is generally absolutely flat knacker
so my a/c condensor, that your series doesn't have, wont restrict air flow to my rad and intercooler, plus the fact that the rad is pushed hard over to one side...oh and for air to go through the rad it has to come out the back side, into the engine bay. But, as the engine bay in a defender tends to not flow so well the air has a harder time moving through the rad...
the TDI's while the radiator has a smaller basic dimension in terms of height/width when compared to a sstandard series radiator it is
a. deeper (when you crunch all the numbers it has a larger surface area than a standard series radiator)
b. its cross flow
c. Its also a 3 tank bi directional jobbie so the coolant comes in one way from tank A flows across to tank B and then finally across the radiator again to tank C
ill take your word, but id like to see some measurements on the 2, only going from my memory, i would have thought the series the thicker of the 2....its a moot point any way, as isnt a larger frontal surface area a better design, as the air moves across the rad its heating...And again i come back to the fact that its not moving through the tdi rad as good as a series.
so on all counts its a much better radiator than whats in the series and it has to be because while the TDI is much better at converting diesel to motion it makes massively more motion than the series diesel and the TDI looses out to the math. The total of the more power out overtakes the benefit of it being more efficient so at the end of the day it makes more heat.
umm, why didnt you say this in the begining of this post where you basicly say the series is hotter...clever way to argue a point 
Rest your eyes, here comes the long bit.....
yes and no, the blocks are similar in design but subtley different, thats pretty much the evolution of the landy motor from 2.25 to td5, fom memory there was a short spate of the tdi 200 that you could build up from the either the 2.25 or 2.5 series style block or reverse engineer from the tdi200 to the series. It wasnt something youd do for any other reason for the hell of it but IT could be done. from there we got the tdi300 and the webbing design and block strenghtening is similar to the TD5 but some clown chucked an extra pot in the line. Some features of the block layout are still similar to the 2.25 series donk. you can drop a tdi200 straight into any 4 pot series with minimal changes, if you get the right series and an early enough tdi the bell housing will even bolt straight to the adaptor just by removing a couple of bolts/studs
Counting the bearing material changes and the fact that the blocks are lighter yet stiffer than the original series Id say yes they are still over-engineered I've only seen a few totally destroyed bottom ends and most of them have been from stupidity or abuse.
hint, hint...
yep, you can do the 3 inch to get more effeciency and thats cool.
you can do the same to the inter cooler and thats cool
touch the pump and thats not cool.
you can do it and get away with it but your reducing your safety margin.
try this
Walk into a dealer and ask this questions " Hypothetically IF I purchased from you a brand new TDi powered XXXX landrover and then immediately put on a 3 inch exhaust, bigger intercooler and then turned up the wick on the pump would you still honour the warrenty on the engine, gearbox or any other part of the driveline?"
hahaha what the hell has that got to do with anything....Warrenties in alot of cases arn't worth the paper they are written on, changing the radio station voids the warrenty. Then on top of that you have to throw the dealer into the mix and how they interpret things...My dealer told me that LR no longer made Def 90's in 2000, and his knowledge of the vehicle was less than mine...If thats your argument for not doing mods to any vehicle you really show that you clutching on strong to your beliefs...put a maxidrive diff lock in a LR and you void your warrenty...oh but i bet you'll say thats a bad thing to do...as LR's are perfect to begin with 
I wont go into the full details of why (if you want to ask in a seperate thread Im happy to there) but anything you do to increase the airflow through a diesel is always good for economy but as soon as you add more fuel to take advantage of that thats bad for engine longevity.
yes to a point. Small increases can be delt with if applied correctly, notice i changed the exhaust which allowed the turbo to work a bit more efficently, i installed a more efficent intercooler, that would provide a little improvemnt in the air, and i increased the fuel to compliment the 2...The EGT's were taken at stock before anything was touched, then the exhaust guys and my mechanic worked together to set the pump.....I believe that I have said, as you are, that over fueling in a turbo diesel is NOT good. You can believe that the wonderfull LR engineers can't be improved on... But hang on, wasn't it you that said that vehicles are built to a cost 
and maybe other factors that results in the end product...
that'd be cold enough to cause problems for fozzy (which is indirect injected) but if you idled it for 2 minutes waiting for the oil pressure (which you should have had inside of 10 seconds) wouldnt the combustion chamber, piston top and the head have warmed up enough to be near enough to working temp? the TDI also get the benifit of direct injection.
didnt you say ALL diesels struggle in the cold? read what i said, i do let it warm up a little, but i could drive off straight away without any sign of stalling....
Id make the statement that logically that would mean that the engine with the stronger parts would last longer, but that would be too obvious so I'll just imply that I said it.
by my official standards you probabley do neglect your gear and remember you only have to do it once for something to come and bite you. Tell you what, your so confident that theres nothing wrong with your gear and you maintain it correctly you bring your rover up to me and I'll check it out. IF I cant find something that isnt up to scratch I'll buy you your choice of brand new landrovers. Since Im being ballsy and all I'll make the same offer of a caravan or trailer for you to pull behind it if I cant fault your driving technique over a week. Of course If I do manage to fault your rig and your driving I expect you to help out stripping (and cleaning) fozzy so that I can insert a new gearbox, replace all the engine seals. Naturally you'll pick up the tab for the required parts, series stuff being nice and cheap compared to a new car and van.
hahaha got to love internet toughness... feel good to beat your chest and make a challenge that no sane person would take. The ridiculous of that statement taints the good information you have provided... YOUR OFFICIAL STANDARDS...I didn't realise your were an adviser to LR's engineering dept...Now i wonder, you say that the engines are over engineered, so one would think you have faith in LR, so there standards that they lay out in there service scheule isnt the same as your OFFICIAL STANDARDS??? what they arnt good enough? Hmmmm so are you saying that using the vehicel accoridning to the manufacturers specs and servicing it to there specs isnt good enough, but there manufacturing is over engineered...... Put it this way. im sure you would take one look at my rig and say "sorry you have cut material away from your gaurds, this has an adverse effect on your vehicles oem performance, therefore you have lead it to early failure. Right now lets start work on Fozzy!"
as for the construction of the engines. Technically the TDI is the better built of the 2 engines running better tolerances and tougher bearings in the crank side of business. As already covered abover the fan on the TDI flows more air through a better radiator than the series.
ill agree the fan probably flows more air....on paper or in a test lab, but not real world useage...
Now If youd left the pump alone this is what should happen.
once you start to labour the engine down below a given speed at a given throttle position (lets say 100% throttle) the EGT's go up and the exhaust flow rate goes down, as the exhaust flow rate goes down the turbo slows down as the turbo slows down the boost pressure drops off as the boost pressure drops off the boost aneroid on top of the pump backs off the fuel injection quantity therefore the boost drops back, This of course assumes that when you went to peak fuel demand you actually had the engine running at higher than the Peak torque RPMs.
Of course if you throw more fuel at it you overcome the balance and you start spitting essentially still burning fuel at the turbo this spins the turbo up harder which lets you put more fuel in.... this raises combustion temps, combustion chamber pressures yada yada yada... More engine wear, trust me. Theres quiet a healthy "safety margin" built into the TDI's thats why you can tweak them a little and still expect a decent life out of them
so are you agreeing that EGT's can rise in a stock engine to a point where they can be harmfull, and would be better to drop back to forth?
But what is very very important is how much you tweak it AND how you tweak it. you can do a big tweak and if its done right have a minimal impact on fuel economy and engine life because most of the time you dont use it or you can do a little tweak poorly and stuff your fuel economy, emissions and engine longevity because its used nearly all the time. The tolerance for some of these tweaks can be measured in .01mm increments
Agreed, but can you agree that others too may know how to do these appropriate tweaks, is it only you???
If there wasn't a healthy engineering margin in the engine it wouldn't tolerate any tweaks without impersonating a nissan diesel.
so now you bring a different brand to prove a point....hmmm arn't all modern cars built to a price??? not really relevant to the tdi or series, but it may back up my therory of smaller capacity engines being more prone to failure given there high output these days.
the previous offer stands, bring your rig and a weeks leave with you. Pick a hotel near Ipswich to stay in.
hahaha ok ill be there you just go wait out the front of your house...
I dont need to make post or phone calls to the effect of tweaking your engine can kill them. there is plenty of warning from people who come in and make posts to the effect that the landrover engine is crap becuase all I did was up the fueling and it blew the head into a pretzel.
do i fall into that category? you will make that statement without seeing the engine, the service life and the conditions it was used under....oh thats right, i forgot, YOUR OFFICAL STANDARDS... where can i find a copy of these?
as for 1.8t I tow that with a series, let me know when you start playing around with 3 tones worth of steerable trailer behind a landy.
how often do you tow 1.8tonne with a series? mon-fri? how do you feel about the performance from a safety asspect when using the same roads as people that drive modern cars, being able to move off at a reasonable pace, merge onto a highway with safety, maintain safe speeds up inclines, overtake etc....don't interpret this as i want to go fast, im talking about legal speed limits...
interested to hear more about your 3tonne steerable trailer. whats the specs on that? how does it steer? maybe start another thread about it.
and LR did make first gear lower, in most cases theres a second lever (or a pair of levers) that makes first gear plenty low enough.
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Master
Originally Posted by THE BOOGER
WOW, I thought people got upset about spelling in forums,
I knows mi english is gooder than most of youse.
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