Thread: ABS 3 Amigos....

I have yet to have a modulator issue(wheel sensor yes,,)
but doubt its a modulator problem,,,

so, no vote from me,,

Shuttle valve elctrical fault continuously popping up is USUALLY rectified by the shuttle valve kit installation, however ther HAVE been cases where the modulator also had internal electrical problems caused by faulty and inadequate soldering etc from the factory If you search here there is a thread on repairing the modulator electrically if the shuttle valve kit doesn't work. I have fitted numerous shuttle valve kits, part is about $145.00 RRP IIRC, and so far so good

JC

Jeez, where do you find the parts for that price? I took my Disco to a specialist Perth LR repairer to see why my 3 amigos were coming up. Fault code showed shuttle valve fault. The warranty company only covers the first $1000 and the repairer said it would cost me another $400!

Originally Posted by justinc

Shuttle valve elctrical fault continuously popping up is USUALLY rectified by the shuttle valve kit installation, however ther HAVE been cases where the modulator also had internal electrical problems caused by faulty and inadequate soldering etc from the factory If you search here there is a thread on repairing the modulator electrically if the shuttle valve kit doesn't work. I have fitted numerous shuttle valve kits, part is about $145.00 RRP IIRC, and so far so good

JC

Originally Posted by SmokyBear

Jeez, where do you find the parts for that price? I took my Disco to a specialist Perth LR repairer to see why my 3 amigos were coming up. Fault code showed shuttle valve fault. The warranty company only covers the first $1000 and the repairer said it would cost me another $400!

You can fit a complete used modulator for that price, a new one is about 3K

Fitting The shuttle valve kit is a 45 minute job, and the genuine part from LR is $145 odd . There is a method of fitting them without bleeding the system, just unclip all the lines and lift the modulator up to access the shuttle valve assembly, but the removal and bleeding of the modulator is only a little longer if you are uncomfortable doing this.

I usually quote 1 hour drive in drive out as faults need to be cleared and the vehicle needs testing afterward, I have a steep dirt hill locally to test HDC and the shuttle valve operation.

JC

you left one option out.

4 : repair shuttle valve at no cost.

thats my option and have done over 2000klms since and no silly lights and all traction control works as normal now. i bought the shuttle valve. took out the old one and then went, hell, theres only 2 micro switches and some wire in this $150 part, so i repaired the old one and its sweet, well for now it is anyhow.

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

you left one option out.

4 : repair shuttle valve at no cost.

thats my option and have done over 2000klms since and no silly lights and all traction control works as normal now. i bought the shuttle valve. took out the old one and then went, hell, theres only 2 micro switches and some wire in this $150 part, so i repaired the old one and its sweet, well for now it is anyhow.

I'll have to remember this

My ABS and TC came on for no reason this morning, but no HD light, so only 2 amigos, one must have slept in

Going to have my system cleaned soon, with fresh fluid through the system.

Baz.

My ABS/TC lights have been on for a while.(2001 defender)
I did a lot of reading on this site and seems there are lots of different problems, mine tested as a front sensor.(dealer told me I had to buy 2, $1600-)
Found some ex UK for alot less and available in singles, about $400/$500- each from memory...
No guarantees a new sensor would sort it though and with my car a 2001 model and a keeper, I guessed that more problems, cost and frustration re abs/tc may well come over the next 5-10 years.
So I put a detroit locker in the rear($900- all up) and forgot about the TC, and ABS I don't really want off road.
When I can afford it I'll put a tru track in the front....For me that was a better way to go.

I have a D2 2000 - My 3 amigos generally appear on a daily basis, on the way to work, just touch the brakes sometimes and they go off. Or very slight camber in the road - so might be a wheel bearing movement issue.The lights are generally off when I go home & they might appear on the way home. Sometimes they appear when I start the car & its been sitting out in the sun & hot.
I have a nanocom & have cleared the faults when the light has been on constantly for a couple of weeks, generally they clear themselves when switched off for more than a couple of minutes. But the faults are not consistant - either a sensor(not always the same wheel) or shuttle valves. The 3 amigoes have been appearing on & off for about 4 years & before the nanocom were on constantly for six months but nanocom cleared them. I think the shuttle valve fault was 256 times. Sometimes I had it read 256 times but it's only been a week since I cleared faults & it hadn't gone off 256 times. maybe it has something to do with binary logic of the microprocessor.
I believe there will be a electrical problem in the shuttle valves either caused by rust or condensation, & this I will fit one day by pulling the modulator apart but not necessily replacing the valves. There was a post re fixing the wiring for the shuttle valves which I think will be my problem. There probably is an intermitant fault with one wheel sensor as well - when it plays up enough I will fix this one too.
I have used the nanocom to test the modulator, where it must run the pump (you can hear the noise) & I think this makes the problem go away for a while (week or two) - so maybe the more you use the TC, the less you have a problem. I haven't replaced the brake fluid or go 4 wheeling much now so the TC doesn't get a work out.

So one day when I am not lazy I will pull the modulator apart & have a look. I am not too worried by the lights coming on!

my 4 cents worth, hope this helps somebody.

Steve P