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Thread: Drive Flange Bolts

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    From a wise sage forum member

    "An 8.8 bolt has a shear strength of 375 N/mm2"

    M10 in grade 8.8 would be 29000N or the shear of 5 of them 145,000N
    I dont think even your 4BD1 could generate that Dougal
    I agree though its the tension or lack of that would lead to failure, I was worried that a helicoil would be a weak point and continue to fail.

    Thanks for all your help!
    Steve

    Good of you to work it out, I was hoping someone else would.
    So 5x145kN at a radius of 0.0475m gives 34 kNm.
    But that's not the failure mode, if they can move then they're going to slog the holes, slog the threads and fatigue the bolts in bending.

    M10 bolts gr 8.8 torqued almost to yield (60Nm approx) gives around 35kN clamp. With friction of 0.3 I get an axle torque of 2.5kNm to make the joint slip.
    On a 33" tyre that's 600kg of driving force which seems sufficient but doesn't have much spare to deal with shock loading.

    I'd helicoil it, put in grade 12.9 cap screws and torque them to ~90Nm. This will give you about 25% more than the original torque capacity, rave shows 65Nm which will yield grade 8.8 bolts.

  2. #22
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    Just to follow this up.

    I drilled out, hand tapped and then fitted a helicoil... or recoil to be precise.

    The trouble I envisaged is a recoil is only about 15mm long and the threaded portion of a flange bolt is 50mm. I placed the recoil, but on fitting the bolt I wasnt happy with the tolerance. I tried to fit a second heli on top of the first, to lengthen the threaded component. It didnt work!

    So I went and picked up another hub from one of the local guys for $50.

    I think I will fill the dead one up with mig glue after removing the coil, drill and retap to M10x1.5

    Anyways, all fixed now.

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #23
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    You buy helicoils (recoils etc) in different lengths.
    1.5x diameter appears to be the most common length and will normally produce a thread stronger than a bolt that size.

  4. #24
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    hmmm,
    wish id known that before buggerring around.

    Oh well, on looking at the "new" hub its in much better condition than the old one. Before I got the 130 Id say someone welded this hub onto the stub with bearing and then hammered the hub off.

    I will end up having a spare hub for trck/ boat trailer when Im done, probably not a bad thing.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  5. #25
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    As Dougal said, 1.5D in thread engagement is equal to or better than the strength of the bolt.

    You can get longer recoils/helicoils, I think I have some, but I always worked on 1.5D on all the race car stuff I did.

  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Just a comment - one thing I have found guaranteed to loosen the drive flange bolts is loose wheel bearings - could be worth keeping in the back of your mind; if the flange bolts come loose, check the wheel bearings for free play.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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