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Thread: Removing sheared bolt (aka i'm screwed) (added picture)

  1. 5th March 2009, 03:00 PM #1
    B92 8NW
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    Removing sheared bolt (aka i'm screwed) (added picture)

    I'm changing a water pump (on the Benz but I know I'll get good advice here) and I've stripped a banjo bolt that holds a coolant bleed pipe to the head. In other words there is a hollow bolt, with the head sheared off flush, stuck in the front of the head.

    I decided I'd remove the head and check out the condition of the bores and replace the gasket (it was overheated) to get the sheared bolt out, but when I removed the rocker cover I was greeted by an overhead camshaft.

    I haven't got a problem doing a head gasket, but I honestly don't have the expertise to remove the camshaft assembly and then be able to successfully time it all up again on rebuild.

    Personally I think I'm ****ed, but is there any way to remove the stuck bolt? It's flush with the head face, I'll take photos when I wash up and regain my sanity.
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  2. 5th March 2009, 03:10 PM #2
    Bigbjorn
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    Can you get to it with a hand held battery drill? Ifd so, buy an appropriate sized left hand helix drill bit. You will need to go to a supplier of machine tool requisites for this. These drills run in the opposite direction to a normal twist drill, and the thrust of the cut will unscrew the broken bolt from the head. Don't use an "Ezy-out" stud extractor. Thgese are tapered and the wedging action drives them deeper into the broken bolt and often not only makes a tighter fit but they break off and you then have a broken and undrillable piece of high speed steel stuck in your broken bolt.
    URSUSMAJOR
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  3. 5th March 2009, 03:15 PM #3
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    rrturboD
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    Do not give up yet...
    in Canberra we have a guy Capital Thread Repair who is able to get almost any broken threaded bolt/housing etc etc apart ... you must have a similar mobile operator in Melbourne. Give a local garage a call and ask them who they get to fix broken studs etc
    Michael T
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  4. 5th March 2009, 03:25 PM #4
    B92 8NW
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    Thanks Brian - yes I can access it with a cordless. I'll ring a few places to find out where I can get one.

    Thanks Michael - I'll check out the yellowpages, call my mechanic who works on the Disco.
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  5. 5th March 2009, 06:25 PM #5
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    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
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    I was going to suggest the easy out if its a steel bolt but its not its brass isnt it...

    grab an allen key, file the leading edge of the flats to a taper and hammer that in and then use that to unscrew the remnants.
    Dave

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  6. 5th March 2009, 07:28 PM #6
    Davy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I was going to suggest the easy out if its a steel bolt but its not its brass isnt it...

    grab an allen key, file the leading edge of the flats to a taper and hammer that in and then use that to unscrew the remnants.

    What Blknight said, plus hit the end of the allen key with a Locktite freezer can and then give it a further tap with the hammer before trying to unscrew it.

    Davy
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  7. 5th March 2009, 07:38 PM #7
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    4bee
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    ......................& don't overlook the old dodge of nipping it a tad tighter before undoing. Works for me 99.999999% of the time.
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  8. 5th March 2009, 07:50 PM #8
    B92 8NW
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    I think the bolt is steel as I've just tried the allen key method and it wouldn't penetrate.

    Thanks for all the advice everyone.
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  9. 5th March 2009, 07:57 PM #9
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    rovercare
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    This thread sucks without pics
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  10. 5th March 2009, 08:35 PM #10
    B92 8NW
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    This thread sucks without pics
    The current lighting conditions were not too conducive for pictures but these are my best efforts.

    The stuck bolt is circled.



    Engine is at this point of deconstruction.

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