I'd agree the centrifugal filter is staying where it is on mine!
In fact from memory, the spin on filter is only replaced rarely compared with the centrifuge which must do most of the work!
Dave
here's a link...
https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi...t&option=10695
I'd agree the centrifugal filter is staying where it is on mine!
In fact from memory, the spin on filter is only replaced rarely compared with the centrifuge which must do most of the work!
Dave
1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?
This is an old post that I searched for following an oil change.
Wondering if there are any further thoughts about the remote filter particularly ANY down side to doing on a 2001 Defender 110. I'd be leaving the centrifuge one in place.
Nothing other than making sure to use the original filter or one that has the same bypass valve relief pressure.
A Z9 doesn't and will bypass oil at about 10psi d.p. allowing unfiltered oil to circulate.
The centrifuge doesn't do all the work, it's a bypass filter (again with the wrong info...). The oil circulates from the pump directly to the centrifuge at a rate of about 10% of the main oil flow, filters and then returns directly to the sump as does any diesel with a secondary filter. The bypass isn't connected to the main oil gallery flow.
Fair enough the main filters a bit tight to get to, but a good filter strap will get to it. It's a lot of stuffing around just to put the filter out of easy reach yet again.....
Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.
Exactly, we're talking a few minutes every 20,000 or so Kms...
Why would one bother with the expense and hassle...
Even in the Disco, with all the extras, Remote Canister shocks, 2nd Battery tray and Provent its only a few minutes of "tongue in right spot, few swear words" and its done...
Sent from my work PC because I'm having a CBF day![]()
All true about the time and 10,000 (do mine).
I'll just add it to the list of things to do think about.
Finer filter made one years ago with a washable SS filter/sieve?
You still all miss the point as to why it was done in the first place. Leave the centrifical filter in, don't take it out OK!! I took mine out because it was "broken". Now after nearly 300k's the motor is still running perfectly. If you leave dirty oil in it will clog any filter and then by pass. That is why I change mine every 5000lkms. Cheap insurance. Because I do change at shorter intervals I can unscrew the filter on and off by hand very quickly and not leave a huge mess all over the motor. If you guys change your oil at 20000k intervals than that is your choice, my four changes to your one is only slightly dearer and I believe better for the motor. Thats why the internals of my motor dont have sludge and the oil that comes out is not as black as the ace of spades and I have had trouble free motoring.
What works for me may not work for others, your choice....................
I am sure that all the extra oil changes would have paid for the cost of a new/sh centrifuge housing by now...???
To correct a few incorrect statements in your posts:
Although the centrifuge filter is a "bypass" filter and only filters a small proportion of the oil being pumped, the fact that the oil goes round and round many times means all the oil will be filtered many times over.
The Z9 you have fitted is a very poor filter - probably 50% removal at 30-50 microns. The centrifuge can remove particles as small as soot, which has a primary particle size of 0.010-0.030 microns and an agglomerate size of 0.3-0.5 microns.
Modern oils are very good these days and do not usually break down (e.g. sludge up) over 20k km or so. As long as you have decent filtration there is no reason to change oils too frequently. Personally I prefer not to waste a finite resource.
Maybe we need a sticky headed "Links to Stoopid Advice" .....
Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.
If you guys change your oil at 20000k intervals than that is your choice, my four changes to your one is only slightly dearer and I believe better for the motor.
[/QUOTE]
I find that hard to believe - let me see, at $9.00 a litre x 3 oil changes = $202.50 versus $67.50 - hardly constitutes slight more expensive in my book. I personally change my oil every 10K and that wid still save me $135 as compared to changing every 5K.
Cheers,
Franz
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