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Thread: 'Warming Up' a 300 Tdi

  1. #1
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    'Warming Up' a 300 Tdi

    Just a quick one.

    Its always been suggested to me that a car should be left to warm up. eg. sit on low idle for 10 minutes or so on a cold morning.

    And I can see the reasoning behind it.

    But upon flicking through the user manual on my Defender it states

    When the engine is cold, drive the car as soon as the engine is started. Do not warm-up the engine by running it at a slow speed with the vehicle stationary

    Harsh acceleration and labouring the engine before normal temperature is reached can damage the engine.
    And I can also understand the second bit about harsh acceleration and labouring

    If anyone could set this straight that would be good

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jock The Rock View Post
    Just a quick one.

    Its always been suggested to me that a car should be left to warm up. eg. sit on low idle for 10 minutes or so on a cold morning.

    And I can see the reasoning behind it.

    But upon flicking through the user manual on my Defender it states



    And I can also understand the second bit about harsh acceleration and labouring

    If anyone could set this straight that would be good

    Thanks
    just start her up and get driving. NO caning when cold, but idling for prolonged periods, hot OR cold will not do a diesel engine any good at all.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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    I have been told my 2 mechanics that idling a diesel is a big no no, the best thing to do is to drive it gently until the engine warms up, and the oil is flowing more freely, especially to protect the turbo. Also all the fluids (gearbox, diffs etc) work better at lubricating when they are warmed up so avoiding stress on all the components is good till its all warm.

    As a general rule I drive off straight away and try not to let the revs get up above about 1750 (when I can feel the turbo starting to really boost) until the temp gauge has got to where it should be.

    Someone please correct me if wrong also! We can all learn together!

    Seano

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    Quote Originally Posted by seano87 View Post
    I have been told my 2 mechanics that idling a diesel is a big no no, the best thing to do is to drive in gently until the engine warms up, and the oil is flowing more freely, especially to protect the turbo. Also all the fluids (gearbox, diffs etc) work better at lubricating when they are warmed up so avoiding stress on all the components is good till its all warm.

    As a general rule I drive off straight away and try not to let the revs get up above about 1750 (when I can feel the turbo starting to really boost) until the temp gauge has got to where it should be.

    Someone please correct me if wrong also! We can all learn together!

    Seano

    That sounds like a good regime there seano, But I wouldn't even worry about the 1750rpm bit, a bit of boost when cold won't hurt. Just no flat throttle, and no early lugging gear changes. These engines are still 1960's tech, and a bit of work never did them any harm

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    just start her up and get driving. NO caning when cold, but idling for prolonged periods, hot OR cold will not do a diesel engine any good at all.

    JC
    Yeh I guessed that. I always take it easy when its cold

  6. #6
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    My Defender 90, 300TDI, Vin Rouge, was shipped out from the UK, where it gets fairly cold in the winter months. My usual routine - same as just about everyone else I think - was to start up and go, don't belt it, just drive at resonable revs until it warms up. The big problem was the heater, or lack of it! Answer, heated seats.

    Certainly, don't let the engine idle when it's cold. Apart from anything else, it'll take ages to warm up. Also, try to get in a decent run so that the engine warms properly through. The real engine killer is lots of cold starts and short runs. This results in excessive engine wear and also rots the exhaust as water vapour condenses in it and rusts through surprisingly quickly.

    One thing I have noticed since bringing Vin rouge to Queensland is that the oil pressure light goes out promptly. It was always rather tardy in the UK. Must be something to do with the higher ambient temperature.

    Hope this helps

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    i was under the belief that it should be warmed up for a minute or two,
    i have a question some are saying idiling a desiel is bad, why is that what does it do for how long is it bad, does anyone leave there tdi to cool down at all

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    Good question Jeep boy, I've always wondered that myself.

    Should you let the engine cool down a bit (ie leave it idle for a minute or so) before switching it off after a long hill climb or freeway run, or just switch it off?

    Cheers

    Goldey
    Just arrived: 2012 D4 3.0 HSE, the journey begins again ;-).
    Gone: 98 Disco 300tdi Auto, and some extras

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldey View Post
    Good question Jeep boy, I've always wondered that myself.

    Should you let the engine cool down a bit (ie leave it idle for a minute or so) before switching it off after a long hill climb or freeway run, or just switch it off?

    Cheers

    Goldey
    Ive always been told to let it idle for 30 seconds or so. As it allows the turbo to cool

    Thats the point of Turbo Timers I guess

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep_boy View Post
    i was under the belief that it should be warmed up for a minute or two,
    i have a question some are saying idiling a desiel is bad, why is that what does it do for how long is it bad, does anyone leave there tdi to cool down at all
    Idling for long periods glazes up the bores.

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