Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Fitting 16mm LR studs in a trailer hub

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I found an engineering shop in Erina ( the owner has a 130) who knew what I wanted and I gave him a sketch.

    I felt that seeing I did not have a guide spigot that the studs should be accurate and it was outside my equipment and expertise to do it.

    Regards Philip A

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    [quote=Utemad;942092]Discowhite you appear to have as much protruding as I do. However I imagine you not only drilled the holes yourself but countersunk the heads as well so could do them to whatever depth you like. How much do they protrude the hub surface? they are flush with the end of a steel wheel nut when bolted to a rim.

    PhilipA it would be possible to mill the countersink holes deeper but I don't have access to that sort of gear. What did you use to deepen the countersinking holes? in my process, all done in a vice and with a hand drill, i drilled the holes for the studs first, and then countersunk to the right depth with a clearance drill. i sharpened the end of the drill so it was flat and cut more like an end mill. being a machinist by trade i have many ways to skin cats

    I figure that since the original LR hub is thinner than the contact depth of the nuts on my trailer hubs I will be fine. If that makes sense.
    I'll finish them off this weekend ready for the following weekend's trip.as long as the effective length of the stud is the same length as the nut, that will be enough thread exposed.[/quote]

    cheers phil

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ok then. My studs are accurate as I'm just drilling out existing imperial stud holes.
    My existing studs were only the 9/16 anyway. Didn't find this out til I fitted the braked hubs. So they were always undersize since new. So what I am fitting should be stronger than existing anyway.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    N Qld,
    Posts
    702
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by discowhite View Post
    PhilipA it would be possible to mill the countersink holes deeper but I don't have access to that sort of gear. What did you use to deepen the countersinking holes? all done in with a bench drill, i drilled the holes for the studs first, and then countersunk to the right depth with a clearance drill. the boys, sharpened the end of the drill, for me, so it was flat and cut more like an end mill. RAEME have many ways to skin cats
    as long as the effective length of the stud is the same length as the nut, that will be enough thread exposed.
    This is the same as I did a few years back, for D1 rims, on a non braked hub.
    Since, I have seen in a LR (UK) mag someone, sells longer 16mm studs, which I would use next time.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by hook View Post
    This is the same as I did a few years back, for D1 rims, on a non braked hub.
    Since, I have seen in a LR (UK) mag someone, sells longer 16mm studs, which I would use next time.
    think its zeus engineering in the uk? i saw them on a web page about 4 days ago just cant remember where??

    cheers phil

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!