Thread: How to Plumb an Auto into a manual?

Why does the 94 radiator have 4 oil holes PLUS the long cooler thing that was in front of the radiator? DO I need to replace the radiator or just install the long thin tube with the coil that was in front of the radiator?

The 3.9 rad has 2 holes for engine oil cooler in one tank and 2 holes for transmission cooler in the other.

The transmission circuit includes the rad tank, then to the long thin cooler then back to the trans. It should be obvious if you have the lines available.

The switch in the cooler line is the trans overtemp sensor.

I guess i would recommend to use the 94 rad as the cooling cirrcuit is actually a stabilisation circuit, it warms the oil if it is too cool as well as cooling if too hot..
Regards Philip A

Thanks Phillip

But given we are in QLD and no snow - lucky to get to Zero deg even when go to 4x4 park - how neccesary is the oil heater? And if not needed then not sure I should bother putting the 3.9 radiator into the 89 Rangie 3.5

The rangie does not have the engine oil lines to the radiator either - are these cooler or heater lines?

So if the radiator oil lines are not needed and only the long thin cooler is needed then easier install of the auto into the manual if NOT have to add the radiator oil lines as not sure what to do with the engine oil lines in the radiator given the 3.5 not have these coming from the motor - blank them off?

Keith

OK here is what my research (Google) has found from other sites

(1) the 3.5 Rangie oil cooler for the auto did NOT go through the oil cooler (the hedge hog) AND the radiator - only the hedge hog
(2) that if using off road intensively I might want to add to the hedge hog cooler or upgrade - and add a temp sensor to monitor
(3) Diagram attached shows the two versions of the plumbing for the 3.5 then 3.9 set ups - using the same oil cooler hedge hog - the 3.9 added a loop through the radiator

Here is my plan
(a) Get the auto serviced
(b) Install the auto from the 3.9 disco into the 89 3.5 Rangie (ex manual car)
(c) Install the hedge hog only for the oil cooler and modify the oil lines (for one the hose needs replacing anyway) to eliminate the radiator loop
(d) Connect kick down (nor sure how yet as have to get auto from shed but have cable)
(e) Connect Speedo/reverse light - hope this is straight forward
(f) connect park/drive start disable wiring to ignition - not sure how yet (need to look at wiring diagram but failing that will go to auto elec to fix when doing air con re gas)

Any comments welcome.

Keith

Kickdown cable
You will have to have a look at a Auto setup to work it out ... Go to the wreckers to have a look .. or ... maybe some one has a close-up photo they could post


Cooler lines
The Auto box line is the one to make sure is setup ... If possible ... add a extra cooler on the "return line" / after the radiator / ... They get hot under stress & towing conditions ... and a cool oiled box is a happy box

Mike

While the radiator cooler is not strictly necessary , I found when I bought a 77 RRC 3.5 with an engine oil cooler that the oil rarely gets to operating temp. This meant that all the engine vapour lines were clogged with cement like crap that I had to drill out of the carby input bosses.

It is in some ways just as bad to have overcooled oil than overheated. The water vapour does not boil off etc.

Now with an auto its maybe not so important but any vapour in there will stay .

Toyota use rad water coolers on the engine oil.

Given the rad water is at 88C hopefully, anything over 100C in the oil will be cooled quite a bit.

I would probably use the 3.9 rad or put a thermostat in circuit for the engine cooler and the trans cooler but then I am a bit of a perfectionist.

Regard sPhilip A

Thanks Philip and Mike

Met with Ringin (my son) today and looked over the lines and bits we have from the wrecked 3.9 and took the grill off the 3.5 RRC. The holes are there to mount the hedge hog transmission oil cooler (that will be a bold in job – yeh!)

The return transmission oil cooler line (the right hand one from the hedge hog) is a bolt in job from the 3.9 – easy.

The left hand feed line on the 3.9 goes via the radiator (feeds into the bottom of the HOT side of the radiator and then out the top then back down and into the hedge hog to cool - this how I read the plumbing from diagrams and looking at the parts I have).

So for the 3.5, rather than put the 3.9 radiator in and then have to deal with the engine oil cooler loop in the radiator (the 3.5 does not have engine oil cooling - might add this later but not want to do the work now as yet to dive this thing in anger and just want it fixed!), we will make up a line using the 3.9 feed lines but bypass the radiator.

Why you ask? Well 2 reasons (1) do not want to have to fit the oil cooler as discussed above and (2) the feed lines from the 3.9 we have has a slit hose anyway that will need to be replaced or repaired.

So in the process of repairing the broken feed line (the lower one to the hedge hog) I will get the two parts of the feed line joined with hose. That is the line from the box will be joined directly to the pipe into the hedge hog via a new section of hose.

I cold try and find the same part from a 3.5 but would have to pay for that anyway (and it would have old hose) so happy to pay for a new section of hose.

ISSUE to RESOLVE
The only issue I have not figured out is what to do with the sensor on the current 3.9 feed line. What does this do? Measure oil temperature or pressure? Should I keep this in the line and then wire it to a warning gauge or light of some kind? Any suggestions here would be much appreciated.

Keith

Keith - trans overtemperature switch

Pete

x2.
I I pulled apart mine recently from my 92 RRC and it is a simple temperature switch .
So you could add a light to the dash and just have it go to ground via the switch.
I think it is quite worthwhile particularly when towing or on sand.
Mine has never come on except when it died from water ingress on a couple of deep crossings.
Regards Philip A