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Thread: TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator

  1. #11
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    Spot on Graz.

    I just did my sons 99 D2 TD5 last weekend. He did it while I supervised.
    Took around an hour and a half.

    Viton O rings are ideal but were not fitted on my sons TD5.
    The Viton type will handle more heat, thats it.
    So in this case we used std orings from a repco kit.

    No more leaks and son pleased with his handy work!!

    Total cost if you had to buy std single Orings would be $5 from a real tight seller.

    Cheers

  2. #12
    scott oz Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    Viton O rings are ideal but were not fitted on my sons TD5.
    The Viton type will handle more heat, thats it.
    So in this case we used std orings from a repco kit.

    Cheers
    Strangy,

    Just curious, if the Viton would handle the heat better why would you not fitt them.

  3. #13
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    Just curious, if the Viton would handle the heat better why would you not fitt them.
    Well. Saturday arvo and no shops with that sort of thing were open. The new O-rings were in my hand AND the originals were NOT viton, so, there was no need to have the vehicle off the road for a couple of days.

    Its often interesting with this sort of thing. (seals, o-rings etc) When i was in the industry often the OEM parts would be Butyl , but the alternative replacement would be Viton.
    Then in other instances it would be vice versa.

    For those wondering, Viton, is readily identifiable by its "brownish" appearance.

    It will (as previously metioned) handle higher temps. But if the OEM didnt specify it you cant harm or reduce the efectiveness of anything by using the original style material.

    The life of a regular Butyl seal or O-ring, in applications not requiring high heat resistance to that of Viton is negligable.
    In my opinion the failed O-rings had not given up because of heat so...thats why just normal ones.
    But... if I had Viton ones in my hand, i would have used them.

    cheers

  4. #14
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    Hi Dave,

    Did you end up doing that "How to" on big red's FPR?

    Cheers, Pete'

  5. #15
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    what the?

    double post.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 30th May 2009 at 05:15 PM. Reason: doyble post
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
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    yep.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...te-images.html

    the only bit I havent done yet is pulling the regulators circlip to replace the last O ring but its pretty self explanitory. I need to redo the oring in mine so I can take it with me on the cape trip (part of why it was changed now)

    Its pretty self explanatory tho,
    • Remove the regulator
    • clean it thoroughly
    • remove the circlip
    • remove the cap
    • remove to o ring
    • install a new o ring
    • insert cap
    • insert clip
    • install regulator



    Im not 100% happy with the tute Ive done partly because of distractions at work when i was doing it that led me to forget some pics I wanted to take and the annoying quality of the pics Ive taken. Next time I get chance to get another deefer to do (or a disco) with someone that can take the pics on the fly for me I'll do it better.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    Well. Saturday arvo and no shops with that sort of thing were open. The new O-rings were in my hand AND the originals were NOT viton, so, there was no need to have the vehicle off the road for a couple of days.

    Its often interesting with this sort of thing. (seals, o-rings etc) When i was in the industry often the OEM parts would be Butyl , but the alternative replacement would be Viton.
    Then in other instances it would be vice versa.

    For those wondering, Viton, is readily identifiable by its "brownish" appearance.

    It will (as previously metioned) handle higher temps. But if the OEM didnt specify it you cant harm or reduce the efectiveness of anything by using the original style material.

    The life of a regular Butyl seal or O-ring, in applications not requiring high heat resistance to that of Viton is negligable.
    In my opinion the failed O-rings had not given up because of heat so...thats why just normal ones.
    But... if I had Viton ones in my hand, i would have used them.

    cheers
    Sorry, but you're not quite right here...

    Std O'rings are Nitrile (NBR) - Butyl is very very rarely used in anything.
    Ethylene Propylene is used in Braking Systems with Brake Fluids.
    Neoprene (Green) used in modern A/C circuits...

    Benefits of Viton are Higher operating temp... (230c) and better set resistance (stops o'ring flattening out sooner). However, it is more prone to shearing when being fitted, so take care.

    Viton in its native colour is Black... But often comes in Brown or Pink.

    Commonly - Taiwanese Viton is Brown/Pink...
    The higher spec, USA made product is always Black.

    Curiosity... What part of the industry were you in? And who did you work for? Someone in Alice Springs? Not Fluid Power by chance?

  8. #18
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Graz View Post
    Well for once, I have had a win.
    Checked with Landrover, as already stated they don't supply repair kits for the fuel px regulator and want $300 for a replacement.
    I went to a Transeals at Atlas Court in Welshpool (ph 94516011) and they were able to supply the required orings IAW my sample at a total cost of $9.30.
    The part numbers are:

    • for the fuel line inlet and outlet fittings 6X1-5V7 - 6.0 by 1.5 mm Viton-75


    • for regulator 106V7 - 0.174 by 0.103" Viton-75


    • for regulator 117V7 - 0.799 by 0.103" Viton-75

    To do the job all that is needed is normal hand tools and a reasonable medium sized circlip pliers to remove the regulator diaphram assembly.

    So far no further leaks.
    Cheers
    Gday Graz...

    Good blokes there arent they...

    Do you remember who served you??? Possibly a "Danny" ?

    Those part numbers are correct, but are Transeals 'System Numbers'

    To help those elsewhere looking to go to a CBC etc... they are...

    M6x1.5 Viton
    BS106 Viton
    BS117 Viton

  9. #19
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    Thanks Tombie for the correction. Butyl kept coming to mind while a voice was in the back of my head was saying no... not Butyl.(at least the other voices were quiet.

    No not Fluid Power. Was CBC in Sydney. A while ago now.

    Cheers

  10. #20
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    SW coast, Victoria
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    Hey, thanks for yet another great "fix"...how useful is Aulro!!!!

    To complete the info:
    Could we post how many of each seal is needed? .. (to assist in
    pre-purchase.)

    When Graz refers to Regulators 106V7 and 117V7...I assume these are different types.? ..with the different sized O-rings.( 0.174 and 0.799)
    Or am I confused?

    How can you tell/identify which regulator...before removing?..(again for pre-purchase of O-rings)

    This info may help...even to the point of carrying spare o-rings prior to replacement.

    Thanks
    Bob

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