LT95 jumping out low range (at the worst possible moments)

As Brian said, almost certainly the intermediate shaft thrusts wearing. The setup is quite critical to get right, and make a careful inspection of all the running surfaces for overheating/ surface cracking. My low range gear thrust face was totalled and this in itself made it very difficult to set the endfloat correctly. I was unable to obtain another low gear at short notice, and drove from here to WA and back towing a 1300kg van. The T/Case was absolutely shot when I got home:( At one point, near Ceduna towing at 100km/h on a 40 degree day the oil in the transfer case reached 100 degrees:eek:

I would urge you to look around for a taper roller kit if you are pushing some big torque numbers through the drivetrain. I no longer am concerned with my trans after fitting a TR bearing 'box, and the temp now rarely exceeds 60degrees even towing at speed up hills etc.

JC

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Originally Posted by Bearman

If its a Rangie I am not sure whether you have access to it from above, maybe some of the RR gurus on the forum can enlighten us on this - in a defender it is accessible when you remove the centre console and flat plate underneat it. Rest assured if the oil looks bronzey it will be the intermediate shaft thrust washers. The only other place it can come from is the centre diff thrust washers. So, with the problem you are having I would be pretty certain thats where the bronze is coming from. I would have to check but I am pretty certain that I may have a s/h set of those thrust washers here. I would have to check to ensure they are serviceable as they came out of a box that I recoed with a trb setup. I am pretty sure that the shaft/pin was u/s from hardcase lifting. Let me know if you want me to check them......Brian

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I've adjusted the shift fork (there was a fair gap between the fork and the inner gear part). The intermediate gear turns smoothly so the needle rollers are probably OK. The engaging dogs on the low gear seem OK.


Thanks for the offer to check out the parts Brian - I actually have a spare LT95 out the back but am a bit daunted by removing/setting up an intermediate shaft, having never done it. If it continues to jump out of low range, looks like I have no choice but to replace the thrust washers and learn how to set it up.

JC -I would love a trb setup but $$ are an issue at the moment..

Yep, thrust washers, access is from the bottom inspection plate, you'll need to remove the handbrake housing, centre diff, PTO cover and input gear to make it easy, can be done in the car....I've even done it on the ground:eek:, be prepared to drink lots of beer, swear....alot and repeat:D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ed-roller.html

Just drained the xfer oil and pulled off the bottom plate....

Using a big screwdriver to push the intermediate gear set towards the front, the end float is 0.45mm. Max specified in the manual is 0.23mm. It's possible to wobble the middle gear back and forth noticeably.

I'm going to give the reshimming thing a go - I might end up with a quieter case and less backlash.

If I get one or two thicker new brash shims, can I re-use most of the old ones?

Is it just a matter of playing with the right combination of new and old shims of different thicknesses and putting the gearset in and out enough times till the end float is right?

I can see a problem holding all the bits together while sliding the shaft into place......

Someone mentioned that a cut down intermediate shaft can assist with installation?????. I have a spare LT95 and can use the worst of the two shafts as a dummy if need be. However I'm not sure how this will help when doing it from underneath the car???

My plan was to hold the thrust washers in with grease, try and hold all the bits together and in place with two hands while an assistand slides the shaft in. Are there any better ways? Is the dummy shaft worth using?

Mark,

The end steel thrust washers, the ones with the locating pins, are selectable in thickness, the 4 bronze thrust washers are all same thickness. using a dummy shaft is a good idea, but it is still a fiddle doing it in situ. The original method is with the trans upended on the floor....:)

Enjoy, and don't take Matts advice about drinking beers, you need good eye hand coordination!:p

JC

The dummy shaft is worth using it will make life a whole lot easier
I inadvertently made mine 1 mm or so to short and it works perfectly.
it enables you to push the rear thrust and washer up at the end of the process I used a modified shaft and tent peg to pull it out.
Makes it an easy 2 man operation.

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Originally Posted by justinc

Mark,

The end steel thrust washers, the ones with the locating pins, are selectable in thickness, the 4 bronze thrust washers are all same thickness. using a dummy shaft is a good idea, but it is still a fiddle doing it in situ. The original method is with the trans upended on the floor....:)

Enjoy, and don't take Matts advice about drinking beers, you need good eye hand coordination!:p

JC

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Hey! I wouldn;t get anything done if I wasn;t drinking beer/scotch:mad:


Actually I wouldn;t drink if I wasn;t doing anything, Hmmmmm:D

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Originally Posted by justinc

Mark,

The end steel thrust washers, the ones with the locating pins, are selectable in thickness, the 4 bronze thrust washers are all same thickness. using a dummy shaft is a good idea, but it is still a fiddle doing it in situ. The original method is with the trans upended on the floor....:)

Enjoy, and don't take Matts advice about drinking beers, you need good eye hand coordination!:p

JC

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I somehow interpreted the manual as saying the bronze washers come in different thicknesses...4 new bronze washers may well take up the float anyway. I can see why doing it upended on the floor would be the easiest way to do ti.

Tell me if I've got this right- the shortened dummy shaft is used to put the assembly up into position and check/adjust the float, then when correct, the dummy shaft is withdrawn from the end while holding the assembly in position and the real shaft is then slid into the assembly which hopefully hasnt moved or dropped a washer....

How short should I cut the dummy shaft? - the same length as the assembly or a bit longer/shorter?

The other thing I just noticed in my transfer is that the riveted sliding clutch assembly which forms part of the main intermediate gear is missing two of the three riveted connection dowels :eek: causing the clutch rings to wobble significantly - I suspect this would have had something to do with it jumping of gear also.

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Originally Posted by mark2

I somehow interpreted the manual as saying the bronze washers come in different thicknesses...4 new bronze washers may well take up the float anyway. I can see why doing it upended on the floor would be the easiest way to do ti.

Tell me if I've got this right- the shortened dummy shaft is used to put the assembly up into position and check/adjust the float, then when correct, the dummy shaft is withdrawn from the end while holding the assembly in position and the real shaft is then slid into the assembly which hopefully hasnt moved or dropped a washer....

How short should I cut the dummy shaft? - the same length as the assembly or a bit longer/shorter?

The other thing I just noticed in my transfer is that the riveted sliding clutch assembly which forms part of the main intermediate gear is missing two of the three riveted connection dowels :eek: causing the clutch rings to wobble significantly - I suspect this would have had something to do with it jumping of gear also.

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Mark,

I think it has been mentioned already, but thick grease or vaseline will help keep all the thrust washers etc in place after the dummy shaft is removed. Slightly shorter is good, allows the last thrust washer and end shim to be slid into place and the endfloat checked before fitting the proper intermediate shaft. As regards those rivets, I don't like the sound of that I would be replacing that part while doing it. If I have one you are welcome to it.

JC