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Thread: Have I done my A frame pivot?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    It's a shame your diff didn't leak more or it might have got thrown up & saved this happening.

    LR oil leaks do have their uses you know.
    Never heard about oil leaks doing welding before.

    You know not so long ago this was the first Land Rover I had that didn't leak oil. Then I blew and oil cooler hose and had a valley cover leak and now you see her as she is. Poor old girl, and not even 25 yet!

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #12
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    this is the second time i have seen this now. On a trip i think last year with Tony, Scouse and a few of the others around Zig Zag Tony's a-frame ball join mount on the diff cracked the weld and roated the diff 90 degrees, busted the shock eyes off and punctured the fuel tank.
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  3. #13
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    Never heard about oil leaks doing welding before.
    Weeeeelll, if you are going to get all techie on me think of this way.

    Copious amounts of oil tossed up/down there would stop the ball seizing up &then tearing it apart.

    Possibly.

    Are you going to fit a greasable jobbie, Diana?

  4. #14
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    BTW,
    Your ball joint looks stuffed so you should relace it while you are there.

    Your Hydromat looks OK so put a zip tie around the boot so the shaft doesn't rust.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #15
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    Have decided that the car will go over to Coopers on Tuesday. No point in mucking about removing axles from 2 vehicles. Doing the job on a grassy slope with a full 120 Lt fuel tank right next door and a full 60 Lt LPG tank above that would be a pain if not dangerous.

    The greasable joint sounds like a good idea, will get it done.

    Thanks for everyone's help.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #16
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    De-briefing

    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    OH, ****, I missed that

    DON'T drive it, its torn the ball joint mount from the housing, more common than you think, it would of been brewing for some time

    It need, rewelding and gusseting, before it moves at speed again!
    I picked up Vague from Cooper's and they have replace the housing with a later model with stronger design bracket.

    Ward reported that the crack was bright all the way around the fracture with no signs of rust or ageing. There must have been fatigue at least. He was quite surprised as the top came out of the whole bracket where he suggests that usually it's the welds that part from the housing, hence he was reluctant to re-weld where there may be more fatigue.



    Looks a little better now!


    BTW, The ball joint was the OEM adjustable one not the later non-adjustable type. Another case of the earlier ones being better than the later ones. The new one is both adjustable and greasable.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #17
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    My 2 door is going the same way as yours. I've been keeping an eye on mine because the ball joint was loosening by itself. After this Easter trip it has cracked, so it is going to be replaced with a Disco housing or bracket (haven't decided yet)
    My observations are that the ball joint is being stressed by the lift my Rangie has, nothing excessive just the usual 2". The whole A arm setup looks to be similar to a rising rate setup that bikes had. I have heard that the geometry is designed to keep the front wheels planted on the ground during steep hill climbs and as such is upset by the lift 'we' tend to put in. The Disco rear ball joint mount is a little higher and further forward from the looks of it, probably because they run stiffer springs and sit higher than a Range Rover.
    I believe that there is some ball joint being sold that has a bigger movement range, (LRA maybe?)
    Another option may be to lower the front A arm mounts with adapter plates to regain the original geometry.
    just another 2 cents worth.

  8. #18
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    Well done,EXACTLY the same break as Jimmy did on his.
    Luckily for you you wernt stuck half way up a sandhill at the time.
    Andrew
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waxenwane View Post
    My 2 door is going the same way as yours. I've been keeping an eye on mine because the ball joint was loosening by itself. After this Easter trip it has cracked, so it is going to be replaced with a Disco housing or bracket (haven't decided yet)...

    ...I believe that there is some ball joint being sold that has a bigger movement range, (LRA maybe?)
    Another option may be to lower the front A arm mounts with adapter plates to regain the original geometry.
    just another 2 cents worth.
    You'd probably be better going for a similar housing to the one you've already got as the shocks on the 2 doors were on oposite sides (fore and aft) whereas on the phase II (post August 1984) they are on the same side.

    Maxidrive made an adjustable one, don't know who does it now.
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    ...Luckily for you you wernt stuck half way up a sandhill at the time.
    Andrew
    No but I lost an entire 5 day Long weekend

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #20
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    Good point, as I have already done that mod to my existing housing. This time the choices are mod my existing housing or chuck it start again with the Disco housing and mod the chassis shock mounts to suit.

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