Thread: Fitting D1 update headlights, grille and indicators to early D1

when i was looking at doing this to my first D1 there was a ''how to'' floating round on the net... it involved cutting the headlight mounting plate out of both cars and welding the update ones in.
i myself couldnt see that much differance?

a D2 grille bolts straight in with a small cut out for the bonnet safety latch.

cheers phil

Facelifting Your Discovery: Upgrading to a 300tdi front
The 300tdi headlamps are about 25% larger, so gives a great improvement in front lighting. You will have to replace: headlamps, grille, indicator, some smaller pieces of bodywork (headlampssurrounds etc.), and should also use new headlampboxes (cut off/weld in) - but a bit of drilling and fiddling will make fit of the lamps. Has the additional benefit of making the front look wider and vehicle a bit newer...
Brookie made up this list of parts needed to rebuild front to 300tdi spec; he says:
"Below is a basic list of bits'n'bobs for the conversion, I'm sure there’s a few bits I've forgotten. Note, to fit headlamps some modification is required to take lamp bowl."

Front Lamps 300tdi:Indicators: AMR1283 & AMR1284
Front Headlamps: STC1233 & STC1234All this is needed. Headlamp# are probably for RHD vehicles.Front Grille & Trim:
Grille: AWR2541
Lamp Trim RH: AWR2544
Lamp Trim LH: AWR2543
Lamp Trim LH&RH: AWR1032
LR Badge: BTR8401You'll need all this except from the LR badge - they are the plastic and metaltrimming to surround the bigger lamps and allow for different indicators.Bumper & Belly Panel:
Bumper: If Required
Bumper end caps: AWR2988PMD
AWR2987PMD
Valance: AWR1479PMDBumper, endcaps, valance etc. not needed.

This isn't really a bolt on-bolt off job. You'll have to accomodate the headlamp box to allow for the adjusting studs. This requires a wee bit of drilling - nothing substantial.
You'll find this upgrade in a kit - costing a fortune. Buying individual parts as needed should come cheaper. If you're able to source the bits and bobs second hand or at a breakers yard, only purchasing new headlamps, you'll find it being far cheaper.

Dan Howell posted this on LRe Forum after doing this job:Ok, further to my note above, it's finally done (!) after finding a weekend spare to get the bits put on. So, a quick short guide on how to do it (assuming you've bought the above bits and you're not trying to stick new lights in the old rear panels) :-

1) Remove old lights, indicators and trim, lower bumper too (makes things easier).

2) Remove horns, cross-braces and transmission oil cooler (if present). Remove top radiator mounts (one per side). Remove bonnet lock mechanism.

3) You will need to cut out the main panels into which the lights mount. These are spot welded all over the shop so it's quite a laborious process. Get plenty of cutting discs for your grinder and get hacking away. You can carefully grind out most of the spot welds, or carefully chisel out some.

4) Unbolt the lower chassis mounting. Pull out the two radiator infill panels (one each side of the rad), these are simply pop-rivetted in.

5) That's the worst of it done. Weld in the new front panels, you can simply tack these in on the inner edges (well, that's all I did).

6) Fit the new adjusters into the panels (pass them in from the inside out, then turn them to lock in position). Short one in upper-outer corner according to the Haynes manual!

7) Old bulbs will go in the new headlights but the side lights won't, so you'll need new sidelight bulbs. The main bulb connector is therefore identical, but you will need to reconnect the new sidelight into your wiring 'manually' (so to speak!)

8) Indicators come with bulbs included BUT the plug adapter on the back is completely different. Best thing to do here is find a scrapped 300 and cut the connector plugs off the back of it's indicators, then use some bullet connectors to graft these onto your wiring harness. New inner wing harnesses are rather expensive, by most accounts :] £80 or so, apparently...

9) The lower fill panels for the headlights require a support on the outer edge that is presumably part of the 300 lower bumper. If you're keeping the 200 bumper you may need to stick a small self-tapper in to hold them in place!

10) Refitting procedure is the reverse of removal, as they say!


cheers phil

I have done several, I have made templates of the headlamp mounting 'box' in the later D1, overlaid and marked out on the early one. I then drilled and die ground the adjuster mounting holes and you also have to open out the hole for the headlamp back to sit further in. When done paint and deburr.

Everything else then will just fit up, not forgetting to rivet the side brackets for the under headlamp trims. About 2 hours work

JC

Thanks Justin!
Don't suppose you'd be inclined to trace 'em out on a beer carton and send 'em up?

Originally Posted by up2nogood

Thanks Justin!
Don't suppose you'd be inclined to trace 'em out on a beer carton and send 'em up?

Do you have someone you know with a update D1? Just remove the headlamps (about 5minutes) and get a manila folder and use as a template.
They are Left and Right handed so you'll have to make 2.

I forgot to mention that the wiring plugs are different for the side lamps and indicators, not difficul to change all that though. You will also have to remove a little bit of metal near the bottom grille mounts from memory, but nothing too serious.

I can post them up If you like, but at least if you trace them yourself, you'll get the idea where it all has to go.


JC