Reply With QuoteYour lucky thats only minor rust for a fire wall wait till ya get a good one were its easyer to just replace the whole unit and thats no easy task
Master
Well with all this rain we have had thought I would give the old defender a service and track down where some of the water was leaking in, well wasn't that a bad idea.
Started by pulling the dash apart, done that a few times and found that the water is coming in a few places.The vents at the front leak passenger side worse, passenger and drivers side door seal on the bend were the inner hinge rubs on the seal and worse of all when I pulled the aircon unit out found a heap of cancer where it had eatin away and water was getting in.
Done a bit of searching on here and as I thought - to replace the firewall is a big job and not sure on cost of a second hand/or new firewall.
I dont have a welder and also do not know how to weld.
So do you guys think from looking at the pics that this cancer can be cut out, and new steel welded in/ replace wall?
Another problem is this is the missus/family carso its not going anywhere now.So I am not sure what to do as it would be impossible to replace the wall on my own or do I go and purchase a welder and have a crack? Or does anyone know how much on estimate does it cost to have done?
Or another option is strip it down sell the parts or flog it of cheap on evilbay(no rego) and cut our losses now and buy a newer model.Dont get me wrong we love the defender and in the 14 months we have owned it have spent over $6k on assesories rebuild injector pump ect ect.Need to spend more as tyres are nearly worn, thrust bearing ready to go anytime, usual transfer leak.
Anyway have a look at the pics see what you think. Ive done this before on my 75 series ute were I cut out the rust from the drivers and passenger side floor drove it to a engineer he weled in to new pieces and I prepped and painted it, but this is much worse and a bigger job.Also a bit hard to drive with the dash out and wires hanging everywhere so what ever we decide will have to be done in the shed.
Behind aircon Ive already cut it out but it was bad thats how much I had to cut
Drivers side
Under the black sikaflex is a whole that I treated and killed the rust but whole is still there.
And the floor I knew there was rust under there but did not relise it was that bad.
I am not the kind of person to do a dodgy job and flog it off to someone else. I like to do things properly.I know I should have checked the car over more thorough so am not blaming the previous owner and **** happens..
Aaron & Jacinta
1994 300Tdi Defender
Your lucky thats only minor rust for a fire wall wait till ya get a good one were its easyer to just replace the whole unit and thats no easy task
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Master
Yes that rust is not as bad as it could be, as a suggestion there is a brand of rust prevention and a paint system called POR15 they say using thier products can stop rust from corroding ever metal again I would say at least the life of the car. Any way good luck with it, I'm about to pull a motor out and I am sure to find somthing in my firewall too. Let face it they are 10 year old cars and maintainance on this stuff expected nowdays. On the bright side you will know what your vehicle and if you buy a similar vehicle you may have to do it out again.
Kindest regards
Garry
Master
Thanks for your replys guys and will be in touch with you soon Dave.
Anyway been havin sum fun with the angle grinder
Yesterdays efforts, still gotta clean it up I bit more drivers side is real good no welding required just passenger side.
The air/heater box needs a little TLC also there was so much crap in there.
While she's in the shed have a few other things to fix/replace leaking swivel, leaking welch plug also I think the O ring on the oil temp control valve is leaking and then there's the good old vacum pump leak.
Aaron & Jacinta
1994 300Tdi Defender
TopicToaster
Easy fix, is the car still drivable???
If so, go and see a few local panel shops, try to find one that like working on older cars... they are real trades people... not the newer replace and paint...
Go see them and aske them for a price to cut some steel and weld it in place. then seal the edges and paint it yourself....
It wont be that much... the steel, maybe $100 MAX and there time, maybe a day max and they only charge $30 per hour... so if your unlucky it will be $500
Dont wreck a good defender, and if you want to sell it as it is, contact me.....
Rust is not a problem, and fixing is not either. you have to stop it happening again. Thats the hard part.... stop the water ingress...
Master
Dont want to part with the old girl just yet.Have somebody in mind to do the welding and already bought a piece of 600x600 2mm sheat of steel.Originally Posted by sclarke
Also purchasing new door seals and front vent seals when I get the rest of the parts I need.
Aaron & Jacinta
1994 300Tdi Defender
Master
I know how you feel,
Started off to put a battery and air commpresor in the back of the disco.
minor rust in the rear floor.
lifted the kick panles under the doors, to run cable, more rust.
now all seats and carpet or out of the disco
Washed, waiting for it to dry, then rust converter, and body deadner.
a day job, now into a week. (half days)
It will be right for another 10 years.
ChatterBox
SupporterCan you treat and paint the existing section, then plate up the holes with 5mm aluminium chequer plate; then Sikaflex it & pop rivet it into place?
Are there any issues with repairing a 2mm steel firewall with 5mm aluminium?
If you're up to it, given that the thrust bearing is on it's way out, why not pull out the motor, replace the clutch & thrust bearing, and treat the whole engine bay side of the firewall.
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